Metal roof flashings

mathew stouffer · 09-29-2009, 04:32 PM

Most of the time I do not see kick out flashings on metal roofs. Does the elevated strip of sidewall flashing reduce the need for kick outs. Futhermore, there are all kinds of different vent stack flashing configurations. Any thoughts on these.

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**Jim Luttrall** · 09-29-2009, 04:43 PM

Still need kick out flashings, see the water stains down the wood siding?
There is no storm collar on one of the vent pipes, both appear to rely on caulk to seal, not proper. The flashing appears to be screwed onto the roof with sheet metal screws, maybe a site built item. They flashing MIGHT do the job, but I would not bet on it. Someone here will have more metal roof experience, but I would be calling it out.

**Gunnar Alquist** · 09-29-2009, 06:22 PM

Like Jim said, kick-out flashings are still needed.

Those through penetrations don't look right either. Might not leak now, but could be problematic in the future.

Through penetrations are difficult on metal roofs. The standard is similar to what you have there, but not my favorite as it relies on a gasket. I prefer to see it done similar to shingle flashing. I know people disagree, but if done correctly, if is foolproof.

A.D. Miller · 09-30-2009, 03:07 AM

I agree with the others that kickout flashings are required, especially for wood siding.

The vent flashings are well described and illustrated in the NRCA Roofing Manual: Metal Panel and SPF Roof Systems—2008

Todd Strickland · 11-02-2009, 02:13 PM

Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall

Still need kick out flashings, see the water stains down the wood siding?
There is no storm collar on one of the vent pipes, both appear to rely on caulk to seal, not proper. The flashing appears to be screwed onto the roof with sheet metal screws, maybe a site built item. They flashing MIGHT do the job, but I would not bet on it. Someone here will have more metal roof experience, but I would be calling it out.

I conquer...

**Brandon Whitmore** · 11-03-2009, 12:24 AM

I conquer...

Hi Todd,

Welcome to the board.

Hate to say it, but you will have to challenge Jerry-- that's his job

Frank Suchodolski · 12-13-2009, 03:34 AM

The first pipe seal looks like it might work, as it is at least installed in the right place, but it is by no means done correctly. Neoprene pipe boots can be used when pipes penetrate through the center of the metal panels. But if the second picture of a pipe boot is not leaking, it will as soon as it rains! Pipes of this size must have either a back pan extending up to the ridge or a split panel detail. It'll be fine as long as it doesn't rain or snow.

Frank Suchodolski, RRO

A.D. Miller · 12-13-2009, 08:03 AM

Originally Posted by Frank Suchodolski

The first pipe seal looks like it might work, as it is at least installed in the right place, but it is by no means done correctly. Neoprene pipe boots can be used when pipes penetrate through the center of the metal panels. But if the second picture of a pipe boot is not leaking, it will as soon as it rains! Pipes of this size must have either a back pan extending up to the ridge or a split panel detail. It'll be fine as long as it doesn't rain or snow.

Frank Suchodolski, RRO

FS: Agreed. It must not be installed over the raised joints in the metal roof panels. But, I see it done all of the time.

Frank Suchodolski · 12-13-2009, 11:29 AM

If everybody did everything right all the time...they wouldn't need inspectors.

When the proper neoprene pipe boots are used and they span the standing seam you are relying too much on the workmanship and caulking, when installed on a flat panel it becomes "Friday afternoon, got my mind on geting drunk" proof.

Frank Suchodolski, RRO