Thread: Counter flashing installation

It seems common sense to me, but I have a question about counter flashing around a chimney. I wrote up the chimney counter flashing is trapped by the shingles. Counter flashing is intended to be installed over shingles. I recommend repair. I'm getting some push back from the roofer who is stating that it is just fine the way it is... Now, there wasn't any evidence of problems on the day of the inspection, but it seems to me that water rolling down the roof would then have the opportunity to make its way between the flashing and shingle. I've looked around for documentation stating that the counter flashing should be installed over the top of the shingle (and seem to recall seeing this somewhere before), but can't find anything specifically. Am I being too picky here or am on the right track?? Any help is appreciated.

Reis


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Reis,

Do you have any pictures?

From another chimney flashing thread

Originally Posted by Reis Pearson

It seems common sense to me, but I have a question about counter flashing around a chimney. I wrote up the chimney counter flashing is trapped by the shingles. Counter flashing is intended to be installed over shingles. I recommend repair. I'm getting some push back from the roofer who is stating that it is just fine the way it is... Now, there wasn't any evidence of problems on the day of the inspection, but it seems to me that water rolling down the roof would then have the opportunity to make its way between the flashing and shingle. I've looked around for documentation stating that the counter flashing should be installed over the top of the shingle (and seem to recall seeing this somewhere before), but can't find anything specifically. Am I being too picky here or am on the right track?? Any help is appreciated.

Reis

Base and counter flashing are required.

Originally Posted by Reis Pearson

It seems common sense to me, but I have a question about counter flashing around a chimney. I wrote up the chimney counter flashing is trapped by the shingles. Counter flashing is intended to be installed over shingles. I recommend repair. I'm getting some push back from the roofer who is stating that it is just fine the way it is... Now, there wasn't any evidence of problems on the day of the inspection, but it seems to me that water rolling down the roof would then have the opportunity to make its way between the flashing and shingle. I've looked around for documentation stating that the counter flashing should be installed over the top of the shingle (and seem to recall seeing this somewhere before), but can't find anything specifically. Am I being too picky here or am on the right track?? Any help is appreciated.

Reis

Reis,

Not trying to insult you, but do you mean step flashing, saddle flashing, apron flashing, head flashing or counter flashing? The terms that I use are typical for my area and there may be some regional terminology differences.

Step flashing is along the slope of the roof at the two sides of the chimney. These are woven into the shingles as the courses are laid-up.

The saddle is where the slope dies into the chimney on the uphill side. This wraps around the uphill corners chimney, is installed under the shingles on the uphill side of the chimney and over the step flashing. Sometimes will include a cricket. (not shown in John's diagram)

The apron is where the slope continues downhill from the chimney. Similar to the saddle, this is installed under the step flashing and over the shingles on the downhill side of the chimney.

Counter flashing is mortared into the brick and extends over the top of the step flashing, but stops short of the shingles.

The head flashing is another form of counter flashing and is used to cover the open top edges of the saddle and sometimes the apron.

The counter flashing shouldn't be anywhere near the shingles, if I understand the problem correctly. The counter flashing is too long and the shingles are pinning the couter flashing to the chimney. There should be a 1/2" water trail on the slope (shingles cut 1/2" back from the edge of the chimney) and the counter flashing should end 1" shy of the steps to allow for proper drainage. The detail shows it perfectly.

Frank Suchodolski, RRO

In Chicago you are lucky to find step flashing ,though it is wrong to not use it, and Roofers are one of only two trades that are State Licensed.

They often on tear off ,just do a wrap around over the old step flashing and depend on caulk.

Originally Posted by Bob Elliott

Roofers are one of only two trades that are State Licensed.


just do a wrap around

Only two licensed trades in Chicago? Roofers and......electricians?, plumbers?, HVAC?, gas pipers?

Also the flashing does not have to "step", as long as it is cut in, it can be one piece.

Plumbers and roofers.

Originally Posted by chris mcintyre

Only two licensed trades in Chicago? Roofers and......electricians?, plumbers?, HVAC?, gas pipers?

Also the flashing does not have to "step", as long as it is cut in, it can be one piece.

Like I said "caulk dependent"

Cut in ,would not be a part of the above.

You see step flashing on new construction around the area though.

Originally Posted by Reis Pearson

It seems common sense to me, but I have a question about counter flashing around a chimney. I wrote up the chimney counter flashing is trapped by the shingles. Counter flashing is intended to be installed over shingles. I recommend repair. I'm getting some push back from the roofer who is stating that it is just fine the way it is... Now, there wasn't any evidence of problems on the day of the inspection, but it seems to me that water rolling down the roof would then have the opportunity to make its way between the flashing and shingle. I've looked around for documentation stating that the counter flashing should be installed over the top of the shingle (and seem to recall seeing this somewhere before), but can't find anything specifically. Am I being too picky here or am on the right track?? Any help is appreciated.

Reis

Pics would be nice. However, counter flashing should be over the top of the step flashing, which should NOT be on top of the shingles.

Hope these diagrams help you.