Thread: Tile Roof Help Please

Today’s concrete interlocking flat tile roof had a couple of things I have not seen before.

The home was built in 2006.

Photo #1 is the side of the front entry to the home. The tiles do not go all the way to the wall and the underlayment is exposed. Also notice the exposed wood batts.

The tiles are secured onto wood batts with one fastener. The 2006 IRC says in areas with wind speeds over 100 MPH the tiles shall be installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions. The tiles have two pre-drilled holes in them and are secured with only one fastener. I cant find any manufacture installation instructions that talks about fastener requirements in area with wind speeds over 100 MPH.

Should the tiles have two fasteners in each tile? I also found numerous tiles that are not secured at all.

Photo #2, are exposed fasteners about three rows up from the eave.


Thanks in advance for your help.

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Matt,

The underlaymnet in your photo is PolyStick, from PolyGlass Corp. The underlayment is not rated for permanent exposure, so it needs to be covered.

The exposed nail/screwhead on those tiles means the headlap is too short. It should be a minimum of 3 inches.

Obviously, loose tiles (or no fastener) need to be corrected.

The specs on nail size relate to Uplift, sheathing thickness, and other factors. I believe one 10d nail or #8 screw is allowed in most areas around here.

Check out the Tile Roofing Institute's specs, back of the guide, here:

http://www.monierlifetile.com/techni...l_GuideWEB.pdf

Dom.

Originally Posted by Matt Hawley

The 2006 IRC says ...

Matt,

Again, get the IRC out of your head. Any reference to the IRC to support or back up what you say will make you look foolish anywhere in Florida.

You NEED to get the Florida Building Code set, or at the very least, the Florida Residential Code.

Dom gave some good information on those photos.

The ones showing the exposed screws - that is not an easy repair as it most likely means the entire roof area from there up would need to have all the tiles removed, the battens installed lower, and the head lap reduced to the correct amount.

Of course, though, doing that would ruin the roof underlayment, meaning that side of the roof would need replacement.

I've occasionally been able to get that done by builders, but usually my clients would take $$ for it instead.

Also, with those screws sticking up that high, those tiles will be too loose on the roof, and the screws will 'most likely' not be penetrating far enough into the roof decking.

Thanks Dom and Jerry. The customer is meeting with the builder this week. We shall see what the outcome will be, anyways thanks guys for the info.

Have a Happy 4th of July

Also here is an awsome link for all tile systems.


http://www.tileroofing.org/uploadedF...7;20Manual.pdf