Thread: Need some EPDM input

This goof thought an EPDM valley would do the trick. Now my clients have this headache to deal with.
What is a typical lifespan for EPDM?

Is it correct to lay it directly on raw plywood sheathing, no paper?

I'm calling for a complete tearoff and what I usually see here, torch-on membrane. Not likely to happen, though. If they try to glue the seam, what's a good product?

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That's: Just. Plain. Wrong.

Speaking just for muself, I would be very reluctant to suggest any half-measures for its correction, for fear I would end up being assigned some portion of the responsibility for the likely result.

Originally Posted by John Kogel

This goof thought an EPDM valley would do the trick. Now my clients have this headache to deal with.
What is a typical lifespan for EPDM?

Is it correct to lay it directly on raw plywood sheathing, no paper?

I'm calling for a complete tearoff and what I usually see here, torch-on membrane. Not likely to happen, though. If they try to glue the seam, what's a good product?

If the EPDM membrane had been installed properly it would have been fine. EPDM will last 10+ years on the average.

I would not be the one to design the repair or require a tearoff based on what I'm seeing. As for repairing what is in the picture, a little more than glue is going to be needed! I would recommend a qualified roofing contractor to make the needed corrections and repairs to it.

Not something I see as it is usually metal flashing on open valley or a weave but in general do you guys actually see anything wrong with using EPDM as a valley flashing?

To me it seems the material is tough as well as UV resistant and longer lasting than other materials.

A seamless sheet would not allow water penetration and the material itself is hail resistant.

Question I have is what would be the issue using it ?
What if this was ice and water shield?

To answer your question, EPDM has it's own primer and adhesive, they also make a seam sealer on a roll that is self adhesive and sticks like mad. It is not prohibited to use the EPDM directly over plywood although it's usually a fully adhered system. EPDM is a super product when used correctly.

Whoever used the EPDM in that manner should be wrapped in it and left in the sun!!

The proper way to "fix" that area would be to remove that crap black rubber, and some shingles about 6' up or so. Built a diamond cricker out of plywood and some 2x's. 100% ice and water over the cricket, valley tins in the 4 valleys, and shingle it all up.

This will get rid of ponding water and future problems that they WILL have!

Properly installed, EPDM can be installed for 15,20 and 30 warranties.

As was mentioned, done correctly, this could have been all composite shingles.

Recommending a Professional Licensed Roofing Contractor to repair is or would be prudent.

Yes, if it had been laid properly, we would not be having an issue with it. The trouble is, it never seems to be done right.

I have never seen it adhered to the sheathing, thanks for that. Every time I've seen it draped over a flat surface, it's with bubbles and ridges and crap like this.

Hopefully, a real roofer will be making repairs here. Thanks, all.

1. What applications are suitable for EPDM membrane?
EPDM membrane can be used for low and steep slope roofing, as well as unusually shaped structures (such as domes, barrels and other geometrically shaped roofs) due to its versatility. The membrane can be adhered, mechanically fastened, or loose laid. It can be installed above or below insulation (i.e., an IRMA application), and can also be used in below grade waterproofing applications.

Unlike most asphalt base products that are limited in their installation to a fully adhered application and have restrictions of ponded water, EPDM membrane can be used successfully in exposed or concealed assemblies due to its ability to withstand temperature extremes and resist the absorption of moisture.

Maintenance of EPDM Roofs

Thanks, Bob. At least the manufacture is saying it can be glued. I guess Rippensnort forgot that little detail.

I called for Repair, Seal the edges in my written report, then verbally suggested a roofer might want to replace the whole works. I guess time will tell if loose rubber will actually last as long as the shingles. I'd think it would be better glued to the sheathing, eh?

Originally Posted by John Kogel

Thanks, Bob. At least the manufacture is saying it can be glued. I guess Rippensnort forgot that little detail.

I called for Repair, Seal the edges in my written report, then verbally suggested a roofer might want to replace the whole works. I guess time will tell if loose rubber will actually last as long as the shingles. I'd think it would be better glued to the sheathing, eh?

Agreed.