Thread: kick out flashing

In my opinion any time a roof terminates at a vertical wall kick out flashing should be installed to prevent moisture from getting behind the siding. I have documented this in my reports only to have roofers tell me that the flashing is fine. I understand kick out flashing is not required by the building code but I believe it to be best pratice. I have attached two photos of roof wall junctures. One with kick out and one with out. What are your thoughts on this.

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From what I can see in the pics, I wouldn't call that kick out flashing, but I can say that the flashing in the first picture is much better than picture two.

Originally Posted by Chris Hart

I understand kick out flashing is not required by the building code ...

It's been required here in MN for 5 or 6 years.

My thoughts?

Dormer, Bay and Chimney Sidewall Kickout Flashings Can Reduce Roof leaks FAQ - Paragon Home Inspections Evanston /Skokie/ Chicago IL

(Yes, Jerry, I know the step flashing is incorrect, and this will be noted in Rev 2.0 of the site, rolling out Dec 1).

Here's a pic from a field manual.

I don't know about the rest of you, but I refer to the detail on the left side as a "kickout flashing" and the one on the right as a "step flashing".

Originally Posted by John Dirks Jr

Here's a pic from a field manual.

I don't know about the rest of you, but I refer to the detail on the left side as a "kickout flashing" and the one on the right as a "step flashing".

John,

Go to Michael's link in his post above and look at center photo where 3 photos are staggered across the page, the center (and left) photos show kickout flashing and step flashings used in conjunction with each other.

The flashing you referred to on the left is a base flashing, base wall flashing, and probably has other names as well. The photo shows it being used as a 'headwall flashing', but it is still at the base of the wall, hence the 'base flashing' name.

I worked for a englishman roofer in 1978 and was taught to make kick out like the attached photos. These photos are from a step by step of the process I created to show developers when I have to debate with them. most of them have never seen a hand brake as pictured.

The step wall flashing that at least terminates on the exterior of the siding, I would accept it... sometimes you have to pick your battles to win the war.

Joseph, can you give it an angle so the needles and leaves don't build up in the corner?

you sure can John, easy to angle 10 degrees. Usually vinyl "j" channel is 7/8" wide so theres not much to gather in there and we will swipe some caulk in there which typically will create a swale to the flashings outside.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

John,

Go to Michael's link in his post above and look at center photo where 3 photos are staggered across the page, the center (and left) photos show kickout flashing and step flashings used in conjunction with each other.

The flashing you referred to on the left is a base flashing, base wall flashing, and probably has other names as well. The photo shows it being used as a 'headwall flashing', but it is still at the base of the wall, hence the 'base flashing' name.

Thanks Jerry, I'll have to brush up on my terminology.

Originally Posted by Joseph Ehrhardt

I worked for a englishman roofer in 1978 and was taught to make kick out like the attached photos. These photos are from a step by step of the process I created to show developers when I have to debate with them. most of them have never seen a hand brake as pictured.

The step wall flashing that at least terminates on the exterior of the siding, I would accept it... sometimes you have to pick your battles to win the war.

Nice tinsmith tools.
I have owned a set of craft-mans (not the sears brand0 tool and they were taken and stolen from my roofers tools along with other craft-mans tools.
I have had a hard time replacing them.
In the photo for the kick-out
There should have been a way to maybe elongate the kick-out so it would not need a fastener to penetrate the shingle.
Ask you tin supplier to bend you a Irish lock of wrist locking tool in different sizes.
You have a keen sense of wanting to learn bends and it not that compacted nor expensive.
The rewards in locking tin are great and easy and not time consuming ,so its easy to adjust your practices and estimate time for adjusting time and money for good work preformed..
I will come back to post pictures of my hand made tools for bending tin.