Thread: DRIP EDGE FLASHING MISSING

HEY ALL

finding this alot lately. drip edge flashing missing around roof edge and over gutters. see results of rusted stains behind gutters. i write it up all the time. what do you do. this roof also had roof felt really short and not beyond shingles

thanks

cvf

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Required by the IRC, but I don't know how far back the requirement goes:

R905.2.8.6 Drip edge. Provide drip edge at eaves and gables of shingle roofs. Overlap to be a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm). Eave drip edges shall extend 1/2 inch (13 mm) below sheathing and extend back on the roof a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edge at eaves shall be permitted to be installed either over or under the underlayment. If installed over the underlayment, there shall be a minimum 4 inch (51 mm) width of roof cement installed over the drip edge flange. Drip edge shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 12 inches (305 mm) on center. Where the basic wind speed per Figure R301.2 (4) is 110 mph (49 m/s) or greater or the mean roof height exceeds 33 feet (10 058 mm), drip edges shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 4 inches (102 mm) on center.

Also required or recommend by some manufacturer's installation instructions.

Note that the code allows the drip edge to be installed over the underlayment at the eaves (to prevent high winds from stripping the shingles), this conflicts with some manufacturer's installation instructions.

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

Required by the IRC, but I don't know how far back the requirement goes:

R905.2.8.6 Drip edge. Provide drip edge at eaves and gables of shingle roofs. Overlap to be a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm). Eave drip edges shall extend 1/2 inch (13 mm) below sheathing and extend back on the roof a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edge at eaves shall be permitted to be installed either over or under the underlayment. If installed over the underlayment, there shall be a minimum 4 inch (51 mm) width of roof cement installed over the drip edge flange. Drip edge shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 12 inches (305 mm) on center. Where the basic wind speed per Figure R301.2 (4) is 110 mph (49 m/s) or greater or the mean roof height exceeds 33 feet (10 058 mm), drip edges shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 4 inches (102 mm) on center.

Also required or recommend by some manufacturer's installation instructions.

Note that the code allows the drip edge to be installed over the underlayment at the eaves (to prevent high winds from stripping the shingles), this conflicts with some manufacturer's installation instructions.

Not in the 2006 NC Residential Code. Might want to check by each state.

Without going back to research it, I think it was added to the IRC after 2006. Many of the shingle manufacturers required it for several years before the IRC did. When I was in Mississippi I seldom found drip edges on homes.

Originally Posted by CHARLIE VAN FLEET

what do you do.

This is common for me too. I depends on my mood as to whether I remark on it or not.

Originally Posted by Scott Patterson

Without going back to research it, I think it was added to the IRC after 2006. Many of the shingle manufacturers required it for several years before the IRC did. When I was in Mississippi I seldom found drip edges on homes.

I didn't find it in the 2009 NC Residential Code either.

Comment from the code instructor was "Even though metal drip edge is required in commercial construction, it is not required for residential. But it is "only" a home!". (Said with sarcasim)

This must come up about once a year

I write it up every time I do not see it. There is not a good reason to not have it on and can think of a few reasons to have it on.

Just my opinion.

Drip edge? What's that?

I would call for repair, install a drip edge flashing, in that case, not enough overhang.
We run the shingles into the gutters up here, were it rains for 11 months of the year, and I seldom see a proper drip edge flashing. With plenty of overhang, the sheathing stays dry and the gutters don't leak.

For those who would like to include a visual aid in their reports of what they did not see during their inspection, but should have.

I've seen roofs with and without drip edge. With and with out paper. Drip edge above and below underlayment. In my experience drip edge is needed. It might not be a building code requirement but I'm sure manufacturers require it for warrantee. Metal drip edge below the ice & water underlayment can and has caused ice dam leaks. I've found the best way is to nail metal drip edge flashing over the ice & water. If possible extend the ice & water over the face and inch or so.

Originally Posted by rtadja

......Metal drip edge below the ice & water underlayment can and has caused ice dam leaks. .......

Do you mind explaining? I don't understand how the drip edge under the ice and water shield can cause leaks. Not disputing what you are saying; just don't understand.
Thanks

Hey Bert, On a house with ice dam in the gutter. When the temp warmed up it started to melt but the ice burg didn't move. The metal drip edge should have been set in roof cement but wasn't. With no where to go the water found a weak spot and went behind the drip edge.

Thanks. Never thought of that possibility.

Certainteed has this in their installation instructions. Seems like you just need a quarter inch more overhang without a drip edge. So, is it follow code or follow manufacturers installation instructions???

Certainteed's installation:
STARTER COURSE:
1. Use CertainTeed Swiftstart or Universal Starter or a starter course
consisting of the shingles from which the lower 5" tabs have been
removed (Figure 10-6). Remember, the sealant on starter courses
should lay as close as possible to the eaves edge of the roof.
2. Cut 5" off the length of the first starter strip and apply the resulting
31" piece at the lower left corner of the roof. This starter strip
should overhang the rakes and eaves 1⁄2" when drip edge is used,
or 3⁄4" when no drip edge is used (Figure 10-7).
3. Continue with full-length starter-course shingles along the eaves

Originally Posted by rtadja

Metal drip edge below the ice & water underlayment can and has caused ice dam leaks.

.... On a house with ice dam in the gutter. When the temp warmed up it started to melt but the ice burg didn't move. The metal drip edge should have been set in roof cement but wasn't. With no where to go the water found a weak spot and went behind the drip edge.

I'm trying to visualize this.

Did the drip edge "cause" the leak, or would the the water penetration have been even more extensive absent the drip edge?

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

I'm trying to visualize this.

Did the drip edge "cause" the leak, or would the the water penetration have been even more extensive absent the drip edge?

(From the way rtadja explained it) without the drip edge, the ice and water shield can be folded down over the fascia an inch or so. With the drip edge underneath, you can't do that.

OK, I can see that - it was the "1 in" that was confusing me; typically if "ice-damming" is a concern and the drip edge is above the underlayment, the manufacturers of waterproof shingle underlayments recommend wrapping the WSU well down below the edge of the gutter (first attachment below, from the Certainteed Single Applicators Manual).

Around here (Chicago) IMO best flashing practice at eaves with "conventional" fascia/soffit profiles and ice-damming problems (to the extent that eave flashings can "solve" ice-damning) is a double layer of flashing and a "high back" gutter profile:



- Leak Protection: Swistun Inc.

YMMV, depending on eave design and geographic location.

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

OK, I can see that - it was the "1 in" that was confusing me; typically if "ice-damming" is a concern and the drip edge is above the underlayment, the manufacturers of waterproof shingle underlayments recommend wrapping the WSU well down below the edge of the gutter (first attachment below, from the Certainteed Single Applicators Manual).

Around here (Chicago) IMO best flashing practice at eaves with "conventional" fascia/soffit profiles and ice-damming problems (to the extent that eave flashings can "solve" ice-damning) is a double layer of flashing and a "high back" gutter profile:



- Leak Protection: Swistun Inc.

YMMV, depending on eave design and geographic location.

I don't often see fascia landing on top of the soffit as pictured in the thumb nail diagram.

I slipped something in that is not a correct application for drip edge protection and I'm still waiting for somebody to catch it?

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

I slipped something in that is not a correct application for drip edge protection and I'm still waiting for somebody to catch it?

It's in your last photo, but I'm not saying anything about anything.

Arghhh…. I figured if anybody sniffed out my plant it would be EC Jerry.
So friends, what’s the problem in the 3rd photo?

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

Arghhh…. I figured if anybody sniffed out my plant it would be EC Jerry.
So friends, what’s the problem in the 3rd photo?

WC Jerry,

Down here in the state which experiences high wind events there are two other thing wrong in that photo which are visible, making that 3 things which are shown as being wrong - but for locations other than high wind event areas, only that one is going to be consistently wrong from area to area.

As you've not doubt noticed, I had not said anything above (other than my response to your post) and ...

... I taint sayin' nuttin' 'bout nuttin' else ... already gave the hint away by mentioning which photo ...

The roof felt is not under the rake drip edge
(Although, it does look like something is, could be protection for ice dam. We don't have much need for that around here, and I have never seen any so I could be wrong.)

At the corner, the rake drip edge should be over the eve drip edge, not under it.

Shingles are not secured (nailed) at eve's edge.
Which means that the starter course is improperly laid.

Getting close Rick, but no cigar................

You folks can make a bottle of simplicity complicated. Now the no posting notice can go away.

Darrel Hood
DILIGENT PROPERTY SERVICES

Jerry M
No one knows, or at least is not willing to say.

So, are you saying I am wrong, or was it not the answer you were expecting?

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

Jerry M
No one knows, or at least is not willing to say.

So, are you saying I am wrong, or was it not the answer you were expecting?

The eve drip should be coated with roofing tar or equivalent to keep water that may be leaking behind shingles above and then under the eve drip. Depending on where you are the drip should be on top of the felt

Originally Posted by CHARLIE VAN FLEET

HEY ALL

finding this alot lately. drip edge flashing missing around roof edge and over gutters. see results of rusted stains behind gutters. i write it up all the time. what do you do. this roof also had roof felt really short and not beyond shingles

thanks

cvf

Drip-edge is required to kick away any moisture that accumulates on the decking running down the slope and stops the face board and other facing materials ( cladding ) from prolonged exposure to moisture.
It must be under the start sheet. Not on top.
Suspect: no drip-edge around the parameter of the roof decking.
Effect: may cause degrading in materials and surrounding structure if left as deficient.
Recommend: Licensed roofer install drip-edge around the perimeter of the decking.
Drip-edge is use as a kick out flashing to direct moisture away from the face board ( in the case ) so prolonged moisture exposure does not effect the face-board and any materials and structure directly bellow it.

Originally Posted by Ted Menelly

The eve drip should be coated with roofing tar or equivalent to keep water that may be leaking behind shingles above and then under the eve drip. Depending on where you are the drip should be on top of the felt

Ted if flashing and materials are applied in a proper fashion ( as accordance to manufactures specifications ) then every thing will work fine.
Being a roofer and having many years of cross trained repair and new building experience behind me now, have only used plastic cement or other forms of caulk to fix a mess that would not have been a mess if they would have followed the manufactures guidelines and been apprenticed properly.
You must redo you roofing part of you education please.
Flashing will be your biggest hint if that section or the trade was performed well. Flashing is the least understood when apprenticing new tradesmen.
Watch out for flashing PLEASE!!

Just got up and was blinded by the glare from my sun burnt nose (fathers day on the lake). The glare may have interfered with my view of the drip edge, but it doesn't look like it extends 2" on to the sheathing.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

Ted if flashing and materials are applied in a proper fashion ( as accordance to manufactures specifications ) then every thing will work fine.
Being a roofer and having many years of cross trained repair and new building experience behind me now, have only used plastic cement or other forms of caulk to fix a mess that would not have been a mess if they would have followed the manufactures guidelines and been apprenticed properly.
You must redo you roofing part of you education please.
Flashing will be your biggest hint if that section or the trade was performed well. Flashing is the least understood when apprenticing new tradesmen.
Watch out for flashing PLEASE!!

Like I said. It depends on where you are. I watch my flashing just fine. You must redo the roofing part of your education.

Originally Posted by Ted Menelly

Like I said. It depends on where you are. I watch my flashing just fine. You must redo the roofing part of your education.

Show me in the flashing section please.
You see nothing wrong but get excited when a error is pointed out. Good luck son.

Originally Posted by Michael Thomas

Required by the IRC, but I don't know how far back the requirement goes:

R905.2.8.6 Drip edge. Provide drip edge at eaves and gables of shingle roofs. Overlap to be a minimum of 3 inches (76 mm). Eave drip edges shall extend 1/2 inch (13 mm) below sheathing and extend back on the roof a minimum of 2 inches (51 mm). Drip edge at eaves shall be permitted to be installed either over or under the underlayment. If installed over the underlayment, there shall be a minimum 4 inch (51 mm) width of roof cement installed over the drip edge flange. Drip edge shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 12 inches (305 mm) on center. Where the basic wind speed per Figure R301.2 (4) is 110 mph (49 m/s) or greater or the mean roof height exceeds 33 feet (10 058 mm), drip edges shall be mechanically fastened a maximum of 4 inches (102 mm) on center.

Also required or recommend by some manufacturer's installation instructions.

Note that the code allows the drip edge to be installed over the underlayment at the eaves (to prevent high winds from stripping the shingles), this conflicts with some manufacturer's installation instructions.

very nice Mr.Thomson. You taught me by giving me a nice referance to a subject I only know through practice.
Thanks.

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

Getting close Rick, but no cigar................

Underlayment should be on top of the drip edge, not under...

Originally Posted by Door Guy

Underlayment should be on top of the drip edge, not under...

Not necessarily ...

And you certainly would not want to do that in Florida, or (I would think) other high wind areas.

I have to say that when I saw Rick post this: "At the corner, the rake drip edge should be over the eve drip edge, not under it." ... *I* thought he nailed it, but I see that *I* was wrong too.

So now I have to wait like everyone else and see what WC Jerry says.

Then Ted said "The eve drip should be coated with roofing tar or equivalent to keep water that may be leaking behind shingles above and then under the eve drip.", which is one of the things I referred to, the rake should also be sealed that way. Then, Ted was in Florida for a long time before moving to Texas, so he would know.

Originally Posted by Jerry Peck

Not necessarily ...

And you certainly would not want to do that in Florida, or (I would think) other high wind areas.

I have to say that when I saw Rick post this: "At the corner, the rake drip edge should be over the eve drip edge, not under it." ... *I* thought he nailed it, but I see that *I* was wrong too.

So now I have to wait like everyone else and see what WC Jerry says.

Then Ted said "The eve drip should be coated with roofing tar or equivalent to keep water that may be leaking behind shingles above and then under the eve drip.", which is one of the things I referred to, the rake should also be sealed that way. Then, Ted was in Florida for a long time before moving to Texas, so he would know.

Sorry, used to thinking in terms of ice build-up not hurricane winds... wish we could all be let in on the secret. I'll bet Jerry is just smirking reading everyones posts!

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

I slipped something in that is not a correct application for drip edge protection and I'm still waiting for somebody to catch it?

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

Getting close Rick, but no cigar................

Alright, what gives, were waiting.

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

I slipped something in that is not a correct application for drip edge protection and I'm still waiting for somebody to catch it?

I dunno. I'm going to guess it's galvanized flashing with an aluminum roofing nail securing it.

For what it's worth, the 90° no lip drip edge around these parts is not completely flat - it still has ridges like the 8" standard drip edge I use. And even then the no-lip stuff isn't typically used with shingles and gutters. The product in your photo just looks like a standard piece of flashing. Since I use a self-adhered membrane at the eaves and rake in this cold climate (such as Grace Ice & Water), I don't actually nail through the drip edge, I just tack along the edges.

Speaking of which, what product is that under the drip edge in the photo? And how many layers are on that roof? All of the starter strips I've seen around here are a single layer thick - that looks to me like four layers total, making me think there's no starter strip and just two layers of shingles on the roof. Unless those are three-tab shingles...

Originally Posted by Jerry McCarthy

I slipped something in that is not a correct application for drip edge protection and I'm still waiting for somebody to catch it?

I didn't bother reading all responses to see if this has been answered, but I'm always up for a good quiz. It looks to me, in the last photo, that the rake drip edge should be on top of the eave drip edge... assuming you can call that flashing a "drip edge" What do I win?

Originally Posted by Steve Frederickson

I didn't bother reading all responses to see if this has been answered, but I'm always up for a good quiz. It looks to me, in the last photo, that the rake drip edge should be on top of the eave drip edge... assuming you can call that flashing a "drip edge" What do I win?

EVE drip flashing is a nonsense word.
Does it kick out or away the moisture? No
Flashing are there to protect a part of a system.
It only protects the face of the plywood end.
Its a common mistake taught to roofers.
It is a cheep no use product that does not fill any required flashing recommendations.
Some one posted to use plastic cement. FOR WHAT.??????????????

Drip edge kicks away the water that will otherwise continue run down the face-board and back up underneath the eve.
Simple.
The photo is a mistaken process that was being used by a roofer that is inexperienced, untrained in the proper installation of roofing product,will void some guarantee. And is cheep.
Sorry but that is all.

Originally Posted by CHARLIE VAN FLEET

HEY ALL

finding this alot lately. drip edge flashing missing around roof edge and over gutters. see results of rusted stains behind gutters. i write it up all the time. what do you do. this roof also had roof felt really short and not beyond shingles

thanks

cvf

zzx.JPG
Please look at the photo.
There are several problems.
Deficiency's.
Suspect: No VDR or moisture shield.
http://http://www.surroundtypar.com/
If you look at the photo the is ZERO DRIP.
The drip does over the ply or deck board end.
There is zero.
Suspect. Butt joints line up. The starter course is wrong.
Please guys I did this for to long to take lip from 1 person here. Do your roofing part over again
.z roof.JPG Plastic cement WOW.
http://http://www.certainteed.com/
They will send you ( free method booklet )laying a shingle roof.

Good luck everyone.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

EVE drip flashing is a nonsense word.

Yes it is ... that is why we are referring to EAVE drip, also referred to as just "drip edge" because it is also applied to the rake overhang, etc.

Does it kick out or away the moisture? No

Actually, Robert, it does. That is why there is that little edge which is bent outward, it serves as a "drip" edge and as such "kicks" the water out from the fascia, albeit not much unless there is a molding installed behind it which allows the drip edge to be installed such that the "drip" edge is 1/2" to 3/4" out from the fascia, in which case it works much better.

It only protects the face of the plywood end.

It also keep water out from under the plywood, from getting on top of the fascia, etc.

It is a cheep no use product that does not fill any required flashing recommendations.

Yep, I now understand why you are saying the above, you think it cheeps?

Some one posted to use plastic cement. FOR WHAT.??????????????

Uhhhh ... BECAUSE IT KEEPS WATER FROM GETTING IN BEHIND THE ROOF FACE. DUH!

Drip edge kicks away the water that will otherwise continue run down the face-board and back up underneath the eve.

This is classic Watson speak here: earlier in the post you say that it DOES NOT kick water out (you were very specific on that), and now you are saying IT DOES kick water out ... make up your mind Robert, then let us know which it is.

And is cheep.
Sorry but that is all.

Agreed ... sorry ... and "cheep" ... "cheep" ...

HEY ALL

finding this a lot lately. drip edge flashing missing around roof edge and over gutters. see results of rusted stains behind gutters. i write it up all the time. what do you do. this roof also had roof felt really short and not beyond shingles

Yes I see the drip edge now. Perfectly. Yes once I put on your rose collared glasses, it all makes sense. HA HA HA.
Great roof install. HA HA HA.
No GC license for up in Quebec.
zzx.JPG

I see nothing of the kind Mr. Condensing. Opps. Mr.Peck--ing order.
Yes that's it. Speaking of pecking. 17,000 post and you have to play the game. WOW sir humble you are not.
I found your photo.
Now is see the barn yard pecking order mentality and your personality resemblance.
Yes all makes sense now.
Thank you for clarifying everything for me.

Sir think what you wish.
I know people like you. Very well. They stopped learning years ago. Mentors beware.
Good day sir. I will avoid you like the plague.
zzz.JPG

English isn't everyone's first language.

-

Originally Posted by Erby Crofutt

English isn't everyone's first language.
Some times people are just tired.

-

Nor are the manners.
If one does not see a deficiency in the gap between the deck and the EVE I am truly surprised.
A manufactured drip from a metal shop is the answer if the store bought drip does not fit.
Also the starter is wrong but why stop there. The shingle over hang is too long. Gee where do I start because I see many problems here.
No drip, gaps, starter course wrong are the first signs to look deeper into this system.
Any HI should note that.
The water will work its way backwards under the bottom of the shingle. With the right condition IE; wind , or a back pressure in the unit, it will force moisture behind the eve and onto the backing of the face-u -board. Opps sorry trade talk. The fascia.
Depending what materials where used this moisture may cause advanced elevations in humidity in the material and surrounding material and systems. A rapid degrading or deterioration of materials used. IE; MSB, OSB, Particle board, press wood,
Once over the relative humidity levels of 17%, organic life starts to take hold. Mold being the first hypothesis.
hy·poth·e·sis/hīˈpäTHəsis/Noun

1. A supposition or proposed explanation made on the basis of limited evidence as a starting point for further investigation.
2. A proposition made as a basis for reasoning, without any assumption of its truth
IAC2

Originally Posted by Erby Crofutt

English isn't everyone's first language.

-

Thank you Erby.
You are a gentleman and experienced in social behavior.
As I noted before I was tired and needed to pay more attention to my spelling and sentence structure. Thank you.
I am at this sometimes 14 hours daily.
Building all my life.35 years now.
BUT slang and technical wording are 2 different things.
Also a life time away from school did not help.
Thanks mate.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

If one does not see a deficiency in the gap between the deck and the EVE I am truly surprised.

Mr. Young, I think perhaps we are talking about different things here.

No one has suggested that the original picture posted by Mr. Van Fleet did not have many deficiencies. Indeed, it would probably require less work to enumerate what isn't wrong with that installation.

After Mr. Van Fleet's query, Jerry McCarthy (aka West Coast Jerry) posted a set of photos and hinted at there being something inappropriate with the third. The thread then took a turn towards divining to which defect Mr. McCarthy was alluding.

In addition, rtadja had made the claim that placing the eave drip edge under the underlayment can cause water damage in areas prone to ice dams, and discussed the methods by which that could happen. One of the suggested remedies was to place the drip edge on top of the underlayment and embed it in roofing cement. Mr. Thomas related that in his area the best practice is a double layer of flashing and high back gutters.

In short, I think there are several conversations happening here, and perhaps the suggestions and remedies proposed in one are being mistakenly confused with the problems presented in another. We'd likely all do well to slow down, take a deep breath, and re-read before we hit "Submit Reply."

"People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along?"
-Rodney King

Originally Posted by Corn Walker

Mr. Young, I think perhaps we are talking about different things here.

No one has suggested that the original picture posted by Mr. Van Fleet did not have many deficiencies. Indeed, it would probably require less work to enumerate what isn't wrong with that installation.

After Mr. Van Fleet's query, Jerry McCarthy (aka West Coast Jerry) posted a set of photos and hinted at there being something inappropriate with the third. The thread then took a turn towards divining to which defect Mr. McCarthy was alluding.

In addition, rtadja had made the claim that placing the eave drip edge under the underlayment can cause water damage in areas prone to ice dams, and discussed the methods by which that could happen. One of the suggested remedies was to place the drip edge on top of the underlayment and embed it in roofing cement. Mr. Thomas related that in his area the best practice is a double layer of flashing and high back gutters.

In short, I think there are several conversations happening here, and perhaps the suggestions and remedies proposed in one are being mistakenly confused with the problems presented in another. We'd likely all do well to slow down, take a deep breath, and re-read before we hit "Submit Reply."

"People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along?"
-Rodney King

Yes Mr.Walker. You might be stating the obvious.
It still does not give an individual the right to exert is limited social skills on someone obviously challenging his conclusions.
It should have been meet with a question , not a pomposity of comments about my statements and my remarks, with out explaining his conclusions or hypothesis so I could defend my point.
Instead he points to a man made flashing ( cheep cost cutter )( maybe saves 20 dollars for the tavern )
I can read and say his assumptions where belittling a fellow HI.
You guy's are true gentlemen with social skills intact.
Thank you.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

It should have been meet with a question , not a pomposity of comments
....I can read and say his assumptions where belittling a fellow HI.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

Thank you Erby.
I am at this sometimes 14 hours daily.
Building all my life.35 years now.

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

HEY ALL
Yes I see the drip edge now. Perfectly. Yes once I put on your rose collared glasses, it all makes sense. HA HA HA.
Great roof install. HA HA HA.
No GC license for up in Quebec.
zzx.JPG
I see nothing of the kind Mr. Condensing. Opps. Mr.Peck--ing order.
...
I found your photo.
Now is see the barn yard pecking order mentality and your personality resemblance.
...
I know people like you. Very well. They stopped learning years ago. Mentors beware.
Good day sir. I will avoid you like the plague.
zzz.JPG

Originally Posted by ROBERT YOUNG

zzx.JPG
Please guys I did this for to long to take lip from 1 person here. Do your roofing part over again

Who is calling who pompous?

Originally Posted by Rick Cantrell

Who is calling who pompous?

Just stating truth and yes a bit more of the sarcasm that was for easily handed me on a plate.
So 35 years of construction is no lie and yes at times 14 hours a day on the internet and my association studying and learning.

I like the photo of him the best. YOU?
So as others treat others they get it back from me.
Just making a point of how someones arrogance at my observations of the first photo can be viewed by others.
Called making a direct point.

Right, no sir.
Making a point I hope.
Now back on topic.
Anyone see a problem with the first photo, the shingled roof and the flashing and or or lack of drip edge, VDB, and extensive shingle over hand?

Ted, I agree with you in principal. However, We all should use caution when quoting codes in our reports. In a local jurisdiction a home inspector inspected a house built in 1985 and quoted quiet liberally violations of the 2009 code edition. Which resulted in the buyer refusing to buy the house and the seller filing suit against the contractor that built the house and the Realtor that was handling the transaction. In short the inspector has already lost his case at the mediation hearing and there are two other lawsuits pending against him in the case. It appears he is going to lose everything.

In our mild climate drip edge is not enforced and will not be found on 80% or more of the homes. It is considered an option here. Not saying it's right .....just saying.