Thread: Clay Tile Questions

Question 1) Have you all ever seen a chimney cricket covered in clay tiles? I haven't this before around here so I was surprised to see this configuration. Is this a common practice in your area?


Question 2) Are not the lead flashing skirts suppose to go 18" or so on the downslope tiles, not just the above tiles?

Question3) On some of the ridge/hip tiles , there is some mastic under the tiles but not a lot, and only under some tiles. For these locations , mastic is not required?

Thanks,

b

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1) Tile installed on the crickets is common in areas with many tile roofs as long as the title is not mechanically attached (no nails or screws through the cricket as the cricket is mostly all flashing and no nails or screws through flashings.

2) Looks like a System 1 tile roof, probably mechanically fastened, also flashings look to be installed incorrectly.

3) That was one of the ways ridge tiles were fastened down at one time, except that the adhesive had specific requirements for application and should have been applied to each tile, and back out of the sunlight as the adhesive was not sunlight resistant.

I don't see too many chimney crickets here in San Diego, maybe five each year over 12 years and 11,000 inspections. Apparently our ten inches of rain each year, almost all of it arriving from around December 15 to February 1, convinces roofing contractors that crickets aren't needed here.

However, when I do find them on tile roofs, they have tile on them.

Cricket.jpg

Hello Brian,

Crickets can be formed of sheet metal or the saddle can simply be 'roofed' like any other gable using underlayment, tile, valley metal, ridge tile, 'pan' flashing at both rear walls of the chimney, and fabricated (usually soldered) cricket corner flashings at each upper chimney corner. If a sheet metal cricket is installed there should be no tile nailed through it. It should be one or the other, not both.

Re ridge tiles, each tile should be nailed and each butt should be adhered.

Pipes and all penetrations through the field of the roof should be double flashed, once at the underlayment layer and again at the tile layer. Lead or other proprietary flashing, such as Wakaflex for example, should be molded to the profile of the tile and should lap 3-4" over the down-slope tiles. Boral has an excellent video illustrating proper use of their Wakaflex flashing here: http://www.boralna.com/roofcomponent...s-wakaflex.asp

I highly recommend getting a copy of the tile roof installation guide appropriate to your climate zone here: http://www.tileroofing.org/installat...-pages-218.php You can buy the manual for $10, or download the PDF for free.

You might also want to consider signing up for one of the training programs put on by the Tile Roofing Institute when one is scheduled in your area. They are well worth the time and are usually offered at a discount to home inspectors. I recently attended both trainings, and even as someone who has been installing, repairing, designing and inspecting tile roofs for over 45 years, I learned things I didn't know.

BTW, I noticed at least 2 cracked/broken tile in the 3rd photo you posted.

Regards,

Don Putnam
Austin, Texas
www.roofconsulting.com

Originally Posted by Don Putnam

Pipes and all penetrations through the field of the roof should be double flashed, once at the underlayment layer and again at the tile layer.

Depends on the tile, the manufacturer, and the system used to install the tile.

When the good old 30-90 hot mop underlayment is used, no flashing is required on top of the tile.

There are other underlayments and methods of installing those underlayments which do not require the flashing on top of the tile either.

The better the underlayment and installation system used, then no top flashing is required, and is not needed as the tile is no longer the waterproof covering, the tile serves to keep most of the rain (90%+) off the underlayment, protects the underlayment from the sun and from debris and physical damage.