Thread: How to write up

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Drip edge may not be required - consult your local AHJ. The shingles should be sealed down.

Improperly installed shingle starter strip blah,blah,blah.
And I include a diagram of what it should look like from the shingle installation instructions. I would guess about 90% of what I see are wrong. I am always surprised when I see it correct.

They are always installed that way, but it doesn't make it right. They should have been installed over a starter strip for wind protection. I also see a lot of roofs installed with staples instead of nails. Most manufacturers warranties are void if the roof is stapled.

Richard,

The AHJ has no sway with me. A couple of weeks ago the AHJ allowed plywood under the masonry fireplace firebox in a new construction. Can't think of a reason that I would therefore go along with it.

As for drip edging, I report on its absence. I think that it becomes more of an issue as the shingles age and begin to curl under and shrink.

I would say; "The composition shingle roof covering was installed without a required underlayment. Rip it off and do it correctly!"

Clay,

write'm like you see'm. Then the realtors will get the roofer that does all their work to come out and say " that's the way we always did them and haven't had a problem yet." If that satisfies the buyer you/we did our job. I had one a few weeks back where the buyer made the seller do a complete tear-off and new shingles.

We do the best we can for the buyer.

Willie

Originally Posted by William Mize

We do the best we can for the buyer.

That is the key!

The HIs obligation is *to their client*, not to be 'fair to the house' or to find ways 'to save the seller money'.

The HI is supposed to inspect for, and report to their client, everything they see which is 'not right' with the house. Only then can the client make 'an informed decision' on the purchase, and, armed with our report and their contract, negotiate with the seller regarding contractual issues on the condition of the house.

If the HI pooh-pahs the issues, that HI has done their client a disservice, and, if the HI blatantly ignores or does not address issues 'because the sale might fall through and I might not get any more referrals from this agent' - then the HI deserves any and all claims against them that they may get at anytime in the future. The HI may luck out and not get any claims against them, regardless, though, they have still done a disservice to their client and they deserve any grief they get.

I know no one has yet said 'fair to the house', but that always seems to eventually come up, so I wanted to get it in there earlier rather than later.

IRC does not REQUIRE drip edge. Install per mfg instructions. Mfg says drip edge OR 1/2" overlap of edge. If no drip edge, you can write up the rotted decking and fascia, now or next time.

Originally Posted by Richard Stanley

IRC does not REQUIRE drip edge. Install per mfg instructions. Mfg says drip edge OR 1/2" overlap of edge.

From GAF Royal Sovereign installation instructions:
- NON-CORRODING METAL DRIP EDGES: Recommend along rake and eave edges on all decks, especially plywood decks.

From Owens Corning Three-Tab Shingle installation instructions:
- Metal Drip Edges – are recommended along rake and eaves edges of all decks.

Thus, if the metal drip edge *is not* there, write it up - that is what the manufacturer calls for and how the code says to install it.

First let me say that I write up the absence of drip edge and I explain the implications of it not being there. But I stop short of saying it is required (because I don't think that it is required).

Jerry - how do you turn a manufacturer's recommendation into a requirement? If it was a requirement it would say: "Install metal drip edges along rake and eaves edges of all decks". They slip that weasel word "recommended" in there, which weakens the statement, and makes it sound like it is optional.

It's interesting that the IBC requires drip edge but the IRC is silent about it.

2000 IBC "§1507.2.9.3 Drip edge. Provide drip edge at eaves and gables of shingle roofs."

Anyone know the story behind that?

Originally Posted by Brandon Chew

Jerry - how do you turn a manufacturer's recommendation into a requirement?

You are putting words into my mouth.

I said: "that is what the manufacturer calls for".

That is what the manufacturer calls for - they clearly state so. You will notice that *I* avoided using the words "requires" or "recommends".

They slip that weasel word "recommended" in there, which weakens the statement, and makes it sound like it is optional.

Try to get warranty coverage without drip edge. Just like they "recommend" underlayment, but try to get warranty coverage without it. Thus, it is *required*.

"You are putting words into my mouth."

Not intentionally. Thanks for clarifying.

Originally Posted by Jeff Eastman

"Metal drip edge not installed to protect from water entry/rot damage. Repairs needed".

""Metal drip edge not installed to protect from water entry/rot damage. Installation recommended per manufacturer installation instructions".

I think the first one is better for you and definitely better for your client, and much better for your overall protection against claims.

If the seller brings in a roofer who says 'but it is not *required*, so I don't have to do it', if the buyer folds and goes for that, the roofer is on the hook for saying it was not *required*, yet, it did start leaking without it, which means *it was required* for it not to leak - and isn't that what roofs are for? Protection from rain and leakage?

Sometimes, less is more.
If you say that the manufacturer requires it, did you document the brand, style, etc. to prove it when called on it?