tile roof mortar - InspectionNews

Jerome W. Young · #1 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 04:08 PM

I made a comment about the gap where the wall and the tile meet in this picture. I told them it needed to be filled with parging/mortar. The condo association has asked that I provide specification and or details from the NFRC or CSI or any other governing organization that would support this recommendation. HELP! I had asked about this before and I know jerry had said it should be filled and or not left open like this .

Jerry Peck · #2 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 06:20 PM

Jerome,

I got that from Reese Moody years ago (he was the engineer for Monier, maybe still is?) and from their installation instructions. He said that the tile is intended to keep approximately 90% of the water out from under the tile, the waterproof covering underneath (the 30/90 hot mop) keeps the rest of the water out - helping keep that 90% of the water out is that mortar pointing of openings.

I'll see if I can find anything I still might have.

Jerry Peck · #3 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 06:35 PM

Go here: http://www.monierlifetile.com/techni...l_GuideWEB.pdf

For System Two, Mechanically Attached Tile,

- page 52 of 178 under A. Standard Roll Valley, 2. Open Valley, it talks about pointing up the open areas with mortar.

(I'll add more with edit as I find them.)

- page 54 of 178 under 3.14 B. Mortar Finish, it talks about pointing up along the rake/gable tile with mortar.

- page 54 of 178 under 3.15 Wall abutments, it talks about pointing up as being optional - this is not specific as to whether or not this is referring to tile running parallel with an abutting wall, had a head wall, or where the tile dies into a wall, but it does limit the space to approximately 1/2". I guess it also applies to head wall abutments as it does contain that note about not nailing through those flashings, i.e., using roof tile adhesive there.

wayne soper · #4 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 06:54 PM

I see that type of install all the time and the general rule of thumb is that the concrete should overlap the shingle edge by a few inches. Otherwise , why install it at all. It's not just a detail to look at. It has a fuction and that function is to drain water onto the surface of the shingle or tile. If it's pk to just drain water onto the underlayment, why use tiles at all. UV? well the suns baking the underlayment exposed in those area and will cause it to fail early, yes?
My 2 cents

Jerome W. Young · #5 (**permalink**) 04-22-2008, 07:05 PM

I agree and why motar around the plumbing vents if water intrusion is not a concern. I am sure there is something about filling around these penetrations?

Jerry Peck · #6 (**permalink**) 04-23-2008, 06:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jerome W. Young

I agree and why motar around the plumbing vents if water intrusion is not a concern. I am sure there is something about filling around these penetrations?

Jerome,

Did you click on the link I gave and download that document?

Just below where I pointed out 3.15 Wall abutments is 3.16 Plumbing Stacks and tell you what to do there.

Jerome W. Young · #7 (**permalink**) 04-23-2008, 07:36 PM

yes I did and thank you again. I was being a smart a**. I ll keep you posted on any response from the association.