hidden gas valve for fireplace insert

[Mike Clarke]

Fireplace is a wood burning rated insert with gas line for gas starter
the chase is interior of the house, inside wall and not built on the outside like many are.
However, the gas line comes in from the attic down the chase (there is a fire stop to the attic) then there is a gas valve in the chase before it goes to a key valve on the hearth. There is a access panel that can be removed to access this (Primary ?) valve in the chase from the adjoining room.
I am not sure if allowed or not, there is an access panel, so not technically sealed inside the wall/chase ?

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[stanley frost]

My understanding of the code is "Must have ready access.

[Matt Fellman]

I believe the key valve is what must have access... I'm thinking it's supposed to be less than 6' but I'm not 100% on that. The other shut-off is a utility shutoff and not required to be readily accessible (as in a gas range where you have to move the range to get to the valve).

So, as long as you have the hearth key I think you're good.

[Bob Harper]

If the shutoff is more than 6ft from the fireplace, it must meet three criteria: be lableled, serve only that fireplace and be 'readily accessible', meaning no covers, hatches, etc. If the shutoff is within 6ft, then it can be in the 'accessible' box, which might even require simple tools such as a screwdriver.

The key valve operates the gas log lighter.

The gas line would have to be properly fireblocked in the chase and supported.

[Mike Clarke]

Thanks for all the answers.

Fireplace is a wood burning rated insert.

The key valve is located on the hearth in front of the fireplace just to the right, location is common in this area. Very accessible for the key, but not the backside of this valve for repair which would require removing part of the hearth of course, however this is common in this area.

The valve in question is another shutoff that is within the six feet of the fireplace also but located on the side of the chase.
Gas line is hard black iron coming from attic through a fire-stop and to this shutoff valve located to the side of the fireplace, about 12 inches, from that valve then the gas line routes to the key valve then back to the same side through the knock out in the side of the fireplace insert to a gas log lighter using hard black pipe (No flex).

So valve is less than six feet from the fireplace, and is accessible via an access panel that snaps off (no screwdriver needed).

The chase is center of the house, One story only on slab.
Has fire-stop at ceiling level in chase so all is sealed from the living level.

Looks like was just an additional valve for emergency shutoff, maybe in case key valve leaked or needing repair ?
There is no other shutoff to this branch line from the main trunk.

I had thought was OK to have a shutoff like this at an appliance as long as was accessible even through an access panel ?

I have seen fireplace inserts for gas logs only where the shutoff was hidden behind the insert when installed and using a flex line, only way to get to it was pull the insert. Not sure if there was another shutoff since I was only observing during a repair at the time and was in another location than where I am, I thought that was not good.

[Bob Harper]

You need to clarify what you have. An 'insert' is a box you shove into an existing woodburning fireplace, whether that fireplace is site constructed brick and mortart or a factory built fireplace.

Within 6 feet, you can locate a shutoff behind a panel that may require the use of simple tools for access. This is NOT an emergency shutoff--the meter is. With log lighters, you should have your requisite shutoff within 6 feet that is 'accessible' then a metering valve such as a key-type valve that is closer but outside the firebox. The code does allow shutoffs to be located inside the firebox if listed for this application but it should be located just outside of the firebox.

The code does not make provision for access to valves for repairs. That is understood to incur more extreme measures such as opening floors and walls then repairing them. BTW, you cannot use copper flare fittings concealed in walls and floors.

[H.G. Watson, Sr.]

With a drop from unconditioned attic there should be a drip leg/sediment trap with a serviceable cap after the valve to collect and drain condensate and sediment. Entrained air to the supply, differing temperatures and gravity likely will collect condensate and sediment. Concealing/inaccessibility would be problematic. This accessible alcove/nook containing the shut-off and trap should be adequately separated/blocked/stopped from the chase/wall/etc..