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Thread: Doors Latching

  1. #1
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    Default Doors Latching

    I run into this all of the time on both new and existing homes and am trying to document a requirement that seems elusive.

    Exterior (or interior) door lockset or deadbolt bolts often do not enter the latch hole or strike plate sufficiently to remain closed if pressure is exerted against them. This is a security issue for exterior doors. I have contacted Schlage, Kwikset, Sargent and others to no avail. There seems to be a consensus among manufacturers that the figure I am seeking is 1 inch, but I would like to find this written somewhere so that I can refer builders, contractors, et al. to it.

    I keep hoping for the clue fairy to visit me regarding this, but nothing yet. Does anyone have such a document they would like to share?

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    Last edited by Aaron Miller; 08-24-2012 at 12:24 PM. Reason: Typo
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Miller View Post
    I keep hoping for the clue fairy to visit me regarding this, but nothing yet. Does anyone have such a document they would like to share?
    Did you ask them to what standard they say their locks meet? Such as an ASTM standard or some other standard?

    That standard would specify the depth of the latching bolt.

    On impact doors, like are fond frequently here in Florida, I suspect that 1" is included in the product approval for the latching of the door to meet the wind loading and especially the impact resistance.

    The listings for the doors need to either specify the specific hardware used to meet the test, or specify the hardware and any other hardware which meets such-and-such standard. I've seen those standards listed on product approvals, but do not recall what the standards were.

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    JP:

    Thanks, that sent me in the right direction where I discovered:

    ASTM F476-84
    ANSI A156.2 and A156.13
    ANSI/BHMA Standards
    Door and Hardware Institute
    Door Security and Safety Foundation

    . . . still loading the wetware . . .

    Last edited by Aaron Miller; 08-25-2012 at 12:05 PM. Reason: Typo
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Miller View Post
    ASTM 476-84
    ANSI A156.2 and A156.13
    ANSI/BHMA Standards
    Door and Hardware Institute
    Door Security and Safety Foundation

    . . . still loading the wetware . . .
    Aaron,

    That's not what you are looking for (see attached).

    I've tried searching and all I come up with are standards for fire doors and other specialty doors, not regular residential entry doors.

    Attached Files Attached Files
    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    I'm 99.7% sure that HUD requires a door that locks properly as a minumn requirement.

    Scott Patterson, ACI
    Spring Hill, TN
    www.traceinspections.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Peck View Post
    Aaron,

    That's not what you are looking for (see attached).

    I've tried searching and all I come up with are standards for fire doors and other specialty doors, not regular residential entry doors.
    That's the one I have, I just neglected to put the "F" in the number.

    Texas Inspector
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Aaron,

    Have you tried the simple way yet?

    Go down to one of the Big Box stores and look at the installation instructions on a lockset?

    You know, where it says (probably says) 'drill hole at least 1 inch deep so the 1 inch length of the latch bolt can fully engage '.

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Peck View Post
    Aaron,

    Have you tried the simple way yet?

    Go down to one of the Big Box stores and look at the installation instructions on a lockset?

    You know, where it says (probably says) 'drill hole at least 1 inch deep so the 1 inch length of the latch bolt can fully engage '.
    JP: Well, of course, I went there first. Problem is there was nothing like that in the instructions for this particular lock. Besides, I run into this problem often on new homes and simply do not have the time or inclination to attempt to ascertain the exact brand and model number of each lockset, only to find that the Pakistani or Chinese author of the instructions did not bother to be precise.

    Additionally, you are obviously inexperienced in dealing with the totally unethical, prevaricating, unregulated Texas builder. Pray that you remain that way.

    Texas Inspector
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Man, you guys way over-think things

    Aaron said it himself: "Exterior (or interior) door lockset or deadbolt bolts often do not enter the latch hole or strike plate sufficiently to remain closed if pressure is exerted against them."

    Or even better, simply report the condition: "Lockset/deadbolt failed and door opened when pressure applied."

    Did you ask them to what standard they say their locks meet? Such as an ASTM standard or some other standard?
    Isn't the basic standard "performing as intended"? Even if they do everything by the applicable book, things still fail for many reasons. Sure, in new construction it's someone's job to match each component submittal with the job specifications, but the OP referenced new and existing.

    Anyway, carry on...

    Mark Fisher
    Allegany Inspection Service - Cumberland MD 21502 - 301-722-2224
    Home Inspections, Mold Testing, Thermal Imaging

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Isn't the basic standard "performing as intended"?
    Texas builders do not have standards, other than their standard never-ending line of BS. Performance only enters into the picture if something happens to fall on the builder's head.

    Texas Inspector
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Well, I was thinking something as basic as a lock or latch is intended to "lock" or "latch". If it doesn't, it fails to perform as intended. But, hey, I'm not from Texas

    Mark Fisher
    Allegany Inspection Service - Cumberland MD 21502 - 301-722-2224
    Home Inspections, Mold Testing, Thermal Imaging

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    But, hey, I'm not from Texas
    Rejoice in that fact . . .

    Texas Inspector
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    What the plainspoken man lacks in subtlety, he makes up in clarity.

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Patterson View Post
    I'm 99.7% sure that HUD requires a door that locks properly as a minumn requirement.
    Scott, if you don't know just say you don't know!

    The beatings will continue until morale has improved. mgt.

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Vern Heiler View Post
    Scott, if you don't know just say you don't know!
    Perhaps he's 99.7% sure that he's not sure...


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    I'm 99.7% sure that the cause of doors not latching properly is due to door installer error.


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Bennett View Post
    I'm 99.7% sure that the cause of doors not latching properly is due to door installer error.
    Me too.

    Texas Inspector
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Bennett View Post
    I'm 99.7% sure that the cause of doors not latching properly is due to door installer error.

    Doors not latching can be due to many reasons. New construction wood doors (pre hung) due to their materials are very susceptible to warping. Even if a door is installed correctly and the lock set is installed correctly the door can warp and cause the lock set to become misaligned.

    Exterior metal prehung doors are also susceptible to warping by virtue of their design The typical jam on either interior or exterior doors are wood and are also susceptible to warping or changing with the environment. Most new doors have a design that leaves a large gap between the door and the jam. If you look at older wooden doors the edge is actually beveled slightly allowing for a tighter fit, Newer manufactured doors are not beveled and need extra clearance as they close.

    Laying off (99.7%) the misalignment of the lock sets on the installers is wrong. Doors can work fine for years and then get out of alignment

    Not to say an installation can not be bad but not 99.7%.


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    I had a builder give me grief while I was explaining to my client about the deadbolt not fully engaging. The weatherstrip was not installed yet, so I went outside, told him to lock the deadbolt, and used my screwdriver to open the door. He just stood there with his mouth open.

    I just keep it simple, "deadbolt does not fully engage, recess is not deep enough".


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Aaron, Aaron, Aaron,

    You obviously do not know the STRICT rules and regulations that ALL Texas builders must pass before they can EVER enter the highly coveted occupation: Texas Builder.

    I've copied/pasted the entire document so that you can read the rules.

    Sec. 325.017-Licensing Requirement
    A person(s) making application to become a fully licensed and regulated builder in the state of Texas must have the following:
    1.) A small communications device that is carried on the belt or worn in the pocket.
    2.) A full-sized pickup truck with a minimum 5.5' bed. Generally the bed should remain empty at all times; however, if the fully licensed and regulated builder also provides a service listed under the "General Requirements of the Texas Licensed and Regulated Subcontractor", he/she may include the necessary tools of their trade in the bed of the pickup.
    Upon successfully procuring the above equipment, a person (s) may begin residential construction in the unincorporated areas of the East Texas region and after a period, not to exceed 2 weeks, the newly licensed individual may begin the construction of homes within the city limits of any East Texas city. Generally, it is expected that builders that meet these requirements will remain in the East Texas area; however, after 365 days, fully licensed and regulated builders may venture out into the rest of the state.

    Bruce Thompson, Lic. #9199
    www.TylerHomeInspector.com
    Home Inspections in the Tyler and East Texas area

  20. #20
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by JB Thompson View Post
    Aaron, Aaron, Aaron,

    You obviously do not know the STRICT rules and regulations that ALL Texas builders must pass before they can EVER enter the highly coveted occupation: Texas Builder.

    I've copied/pasted the entire document so that you can read the rules.

    Sec. 325.017-Licensing Requirement
    A person(s) making application to become a fully licensed and regulated builder in the state of Texas must have the following:
    1.) A small communications device that is carried on the belt or worn in the pocket.
    2.) A full-sized pickup truck with a minimum 5.5' bed. Generally the bed should remain empty at all times; however, if the fully licensed and regulated builder also provides a service listed under the "General Requirements of the Texas Licensed and Regulated Subcontractor", he/she may include the necessary tools of their trade in the bed of the pickup.
    Upon successfully procuring the above equipment, a person (s) may begin residential construction in the unincorporated areas of the East Texas region and after a period, not to exceed 2 weeks, the newly licensed individual may begin the construction of homes within the city limits of any East Texas city. Generally, it is expected that builders that meet these requirements will remain in the East Texas area; however, after 365 days, fully licensed and regulated builders may venture out into the rest of the state.
    JB,

    Simply excellent!!!!

    I'm pretty sure much of the above could also be applied to many (I repeat MANY) home inspectors.


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by JB Thompson View Post
    Aaron, Aaron, Aaron,

    You obviously do not know the STRICT rules and regulations that ALL Texas builders must pass before they can EVER enter the highly coveted occupation: Texas Builder.

    I've copied/pasted the entire document so that you can read the rules.

    Sec. 325.017-Licensing Requirement
    A person(s) making application to become a fully licensed and regulated builder in the state of Texas must have the following:
    1.) A small communications device that is carried on the belt or worn in the pocket.
    2.) A full-sized pickup truck with a minimum 5.5' bed. Generally the bed should remain empty at all times; however, if the fully licensed and regulated builder also provides a service listed under the "General Requirements of the Texas Licensed and Regulated Subcontractor", he/she may include the necessary tools of their trade in the bed of the pickup.
    Upon successfully procuring the above equipment, a person (s) may begin residential construction in the unincorporated areas of the East Texas region and after a period, not to exceed 2 weeks, the newly licensed individual may begin the construction of homes within the city limits of any East Texas city. Generally, it is expected that builders that meet these requirements will remain in the East Texas area; however, after 365 days, fully licensed and regulated builders may venture out into the rest of the state.
    Similar rules here..........except, the pickup bed is piled high with tools that may or may not be in operating condition and in winter time, must have no less than six inches of snow on them to insulate them from our cold weather.
    A separate rule for painters is that they must be able to fit all their sprayers and equipment in a 1979 Ford Pinto with ladders secured to the roof with used bailing cord.

    I had an independent builder tell me a few years ago, that if I knew so damn much, I would be building something instead of a nobody piece of s**t home inspector making a living tearing down the doers in our society.


  22. #22
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Does the standard or manufacturers instructions really matter if the door isn't latching properly. The standard is, it works or it doesn't.

    Randy Gordon, construction
    Michigan Building Inspector/Plan Reviewer

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Peck View Post
    Aaron,

    Have you tried the simple way yet?

    Go down to one of the Big Box stores and look at the installation instructions on a lockset?

    You know, where it says (probably says) 'drill hole at least 1 inch deep so the 1 inch length of the latch bolt can fully engage '.
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Miller View Post
    JP: Well, of course, I went there first. Problem is there was nothing like that in the instructions for this particular lock. Besides, I run into this problem often on new homes and simply do not have the time or inclination to attempt to ascertain the exact brand and model number of each lockset, only to find that the Pakistani or Chinese author of the instructions did not bother to be precise.

    Additionally, you are obviously inexperienced in dealing with the totally unethical, prevaricating, unregulated Texas builder. Pray that you remain that way.
    Aaron,

    I didn't follow up on this before because, well, because you said you did, but, when I did follow up on it tonight ... I found just what I thought you would find in the installation instructions: http://w3.securitytechnologies.com/I...on_P513174.PDF

    "Mark drill points above and below horizontal centerline. Drill (2) overlapping 7⁄8" (22mm) holes, 1 1⁄8" (29mm) deep. Clean out holes for strike box. Place strike box in hole. Place strike over strike box and trace for cutout. Chisel 1⁄8" (6mm) deep for flush fit of reinforcer, strike box, and strike."

    If the latch is not holding ... the hole was not drilled as deep as specified.

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Peck View Post
    Aaron,

    I didn't follow up on this before because, well, because you said you did, but, when I did follow up on it tonight ... I found just what I thought you would find in the installation instructions: http://w3.securitytechnologies.com/I...on_P513174.PDF

    "Mark drill points above and below horizontal centerline. Drill (2) overlapping 7⁄8" (22mm) holes, 1 1⁄8" (29mm) deep. Clean out holes for strike box. Place strike box in hole. Place strike over strike box and trace for cutout. Chisel 1⁄8" (6mm) deep for flush fit of reinforcer, strike box, and strike."

    If the latch is not holding ... the hole was not drilled as deep as specified.

    So how does one drill a hole 1-1/8" deep into a 3/4" thick jamb? With the rough opening space all you will be doing is fulling drilling out the jamb, you won't make it into the jack stud or very little if any.

    If the deadbolt latch isn't holding, most likely the latch plate isn't aligned correctly and is barely catching the edge. If the strike plate box is in the hole it is surely drilled deep enough or it wouldn't fit.

    Randy Gordon, construction
    Michigan Building Inspector/Plan Reviewer

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Door Guy View Post
    So how does one drill a hole 1-1/8" deep into a 3/4" thick jamb? With the rough opening space all you will be doing is fulling drilling out the jamb, you won't make it into the jack stud or very little if any.

    If the deadbolt latch isn't holding, most likely the latch plate isn't aligned correctly and is barely catching the edge. If the strike plate box is in the hole it is surely drilled deep enough or it wouldn't fit.
    If the bolt is not allowed to extend fully, the mechanisms I have seen will not reach the detent and will easily slide open. The deeper hole adds no strength when in thinner material but does add to security.

    Jim Luttrall
    www.MrInspector.net
    Plano, Texas

  26. #26
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall View Post
    If the bolt is not allowed to extend fully, the mechanisms I have seen will not reach the detent and will easily slide open. The deeper hole adds no strength when in thinner material but does add to security.
    I agree Jim, but if the latch box is installed, which is as deep or deeper than the throw of the deadbolt, than the hole depth must be correct. Then the problem is in adjustment not depth.

    Randy Gordon, construction
    Michigan Building Inspector/Plan Reviewer

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Door Guy View Post
    I agree Jim, but if the latch box is installed, which is as deep or deeper than the throw of the deadbolt, than the hole depth must be correct. Then the problem is in adjustment not depth.
    Rare that I see a box, only plates designed for and open hole in the wood. If you are lucky the screws might be long enough to reach the stud. But yeah if they get a full depth box installed, they must have drilled it deep enough and the OP would not have been questioning, right?

    Jim Luttrall
    www.MrInspector.net
    Plano, Texas

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall View Post
    Rare that I see a box, only plates designed for and open hole in the wood. If you are lucky the screws might be long enough to reach the stud. But yeah if they get a full depth box installed, they must have drilled it deep enough and the OP would not have been questioning, right?
    Good point, well taken. Just saying I have seen problems where the latch plate is rubbing the edge of the latch, causing that same problem, not a complete throw of the latch.

    Randy Gordon, construction
    Michigan Building Inspector/Plan Reviewer

  29. #29
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall View Post
    Rare that I see a box, only plates designed for and open hole in the wood. If you are lucky the screws might be long enough to reach the stud. But yeah if they get a full depth box installed, they must have drilled it deep enough and the OP would not have been questioning, right?
    Same here, I, too, rarely see the strike box.

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

  30. #30
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall View Post
    Rare that I see a box, only plates designed for and open hole in the wood. If you are lucky the screws might be long enough to reach the stud. But yeah if they get a full depth box installed, they must have drilled it deep enough and the OP would not have been questioning, right?
    I, too, rarely see a box. But from a practical point of view, I don't write up "no strike box". I have seen (so many times that it is a little uncomfortable) evidence of forced open doors without and with strike boxes. I haven't seen any evidence that they increase the security of the door.


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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Failing all other sources of information, it would be reasonable to expect that, if you measure the length of the exposed deadbolt or latchbolt, the opening behind the strike plate should be equal or slightly (1/8") deeper. My latchbolts extend 5/8" from the door.

    PDQ specifies a 1" opening in the door jamb for the latchbolt.
    GT Series Installation Instructions

    I have never seen any other spec for a deadbolt or latchbolt door jamb opening.


  32. #32
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    I'm inclined to agree with the common sense, as opposed to technical posts. Warping, settling, expansion, contraction, shrinkage or two people arguing on opposite sides of a door can wreak havoc with the hardware alignment. Agree with the comments about General Contractor requirements and how flakey many can be. However, a skilled and knowledgable contractor is a beautiful thing. The best are the ones that look and sound like flakes, but are smart as a whip and do not waste words. The word I have learned from these guys for equipment not functioning, as designed is "broke". On occaision when they're all fired up with some coffee or just feelin chatty they might say "it's broke".


  33. #33
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jimmy Roberts View Post
    PDQ specifies a 1" opening in the door jamb for the latchbolt.

    I have never seen any other spec for a deadbolt or latchbolt door jamb opening.
    I suspect that if one reads any of the installation instructions which comes with a door latch, especially an entrance lockset one, that the installation instructions will specify the depth of the hole.

    The one I posted specified different depths for the latchbolt and for the deadbolt, and, surprising as it was, the latchbolt hole was specified as being deeper than the deadbolt hole.

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Garry Blankenship View Post
    The word I have learned from these guys for equipment not functioning, as designed is "broke". On occaision when they're all fired up with some coffee or just feelin chatty they might say "it's broke".
    Garry,

    I've always preferred "It don't work" over "It's broke" because, while it may not be "broke", it dang sure "don't work" .

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

  35. #35
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry Peck View Post
    Garry,

    I've always preferred "It don't work" over "It's broke" because, while it may not be "broke", it dang sure "don't work" .
    If it ain't broke don't fix it.....

    Randy Gordon, construction
    Michigan Building Inspector/Plan Reviewer

  36. #36
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    Default Re: Doors Latching

    Quote Originally Posted by Door Guy View Post
    If it ain't broke don't fix it.....
    If it don't work ... FIX IT!

    See the difference between "broke" and "work"?

    Jerry Peck
    Construction/Litigation/Code Consultant - Retired
    www.AskCodeMan.com

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