Thread: Good Looking Joist

Would you call this joist out ? What was the AHJ doing....12 year old home $3,250,000 price tag...easily seen in a basement...no crawling required.

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Nice one for the archives there, Robert. The authorities can't see all of it, so it must be just spot checks when there's a building boom on. More reason for us to get out there.

I saw a smart move recently. The smarter than average plumber turned the tub drain slightly to one side so the vertical portion came down beside the joist, thus no need to cut. Why not, eh?

Is that an original joist, or did someone "reinforce" a joist cavity below the tub - I'm wondering due the the absence of hangers, did someone do a lousy job of heading off that space?

Yes...it's an original joist. There is no hanger there on the left because that's solid blocking/bridging in the middle of the span.

That picture IMO is a good representation of the resilency of wood framing and how joists theoretically carry the loads....max compression at the top (in this case transfered through the plywood subfloor) max tension at the bottom and the neutral axis right down the center of the joist.

This home was vacant...so for fun I took the liberty of taking off my shoes and I got in the tub to see if I could create/detect any deflection....none.

The cutout being close to the end of the joist is probably what's keeping it from deflecting. But there certainly isn't much left of it.

First off blocking isn't a joist, joists are running in a different direction. Second the toe-nail. Third, its dropped. How can you call this "original"?!? esp. as to framing/blocking?

Next, ascribing the pictured trap installation Sch. 20 to a plumber? please! An unlicensed tile guy, "handy-man" or fly-by-night "remodeler" maybe. Slip joint lav DIY kit not on a tub or shower drain. Urea Foam in place? No way. Water staining there for a reason. Standing in dry tub or shower as a test? for what? Loads transfered to wall and/or floor at contact points not at the drain.

Nothing about this looks "original" looks to be the work of a DIY or untrained/unskilled "repair".

Sch. 40 and clean-out trap perhaps, no concealed slip joints. Required connection to threaded drain piece missing - wrong way plumbing, wrong materials, unskilled plumbing work..

Of course call out the plumbing, evidence of leaking, destructive foam and improper blocking.

To which you can add - if that trap arm is connected to an 90 degree elbow connected to the PVC line running vertically down behind the pipe insulation to the right of the "3.1" printed on the insulation, it's a "S" trap to boot...

Wow...

I'll say it again.

This is original work.

The cut out is in the approximate center of the joist span.

The solid wood you see on the left side of the picture is solid bridging which is the same 2X10 dimension as the joist...flush at the top and bottom of the joist. The joist bay is not "headed" off.

The nails are not toe nails, but face nails securing the piece of bridging in the next adjacent joist bay. As is typical with solid bridging the pieces are staggered to each side of a center line to facilitate face nailing.

Yes....the plumbing has many problems, thank you HG for pointing out the obvious.

Michael, good eye on the s trap...lots of s traps in this house.

I assumed the smilie after my first sentence was sufficient indication that the picture was posted for fun....evidently not clear enough to some...as usual, I will endeavor going forward to enhance the precision of my posts.

This looks like a good case for the question;
"Should plumbers have special endorsements on there license to own/operate saws?"

Originally Posted by John Kogel

I saw a smart move recently. The smarter than average plumber turned the tub drain slightly to one side so the vertical portion came down beside the joist, thus no need to cut. Why not, eh?

Here's what that looks like. Plumbers, look and learn.