Thread: Lintel Weep Holes

If you have to pull a rusting lintel can you add weep holes that were not present before when installing the new lintel. Also I am speaking with masons about having this done. Can someone please explain the correct procedure step by step for installing a new lintel on a brick veneer home that was built in 1992.

Thanks

Simply adding weep holes is not necessarily the entire answer. There should also be through wall flashing directing the water towards the weep holes (from the wall and sealed into the internal moisture barrier to under the bricks and to atmosphere.). This also keeps the water off the lintel, so it will not rust out.

I can see no flashing with the original lintel. Certainly it does not extend past the lintel. I assume flashing can be done if a new lintel is placed. So are you saying weep holes can also be added then?

Here is a diagram of a through wall flashing from a block wall to lintel. It would work the same way on a wood framed wall, except instead of going through the inner wall, it would be attached to the flat plane of the wall. Of course in both situations there should be a moisture overlapping the flashing going up.

So you see, any water that drains down is directed to atmosphere via the weep holes. water never touches the lintel. The lintel is for support, not for water proofing.

The diagram does not show the weep holes, but you already know where they belong.

I also recommend painting the lintels before you install them, with a durable sealant. I happen to like Hammerite paint. I've seen metal 25 years after application that looks like day 1. The stuff is bullet proof.

Originally Posted by George2

I can see no flashing with the original lintel. Certainly it does not extend past the lintel. I assume flashing can be done if a new lintel is placed. So are you saying weep holes can also be added then?

Yes.

Make sure the contractor does not forget end dams. Very important. Go to BIA and you will find lots of useful info.

http://www.gobrick.com/portals/25/do...otes/tn28b.pdf

Originally Posted by George2

If you have to pull a rusting lintel can you add weep holes that were not present before when installing the new lintel. Also I am speaking with masons about having this done. Can someone please explain the correct procedure step by step for installing a new lintel on a brick veneer home that was built in 1992.

Thanks

This is a problem I see too often. Is common in coastal areas, is seen on new homes, is common around the fountains that spray water at these lake developments. Around here (Houston), lintels are never flashed. Sometimes lintels are galvanized, and this prevents the problem. The rusting lintels cause brick cracks that normally progress horizontally. The replacement of a lintel will require some removal of brick; if it is a short distance, say less than 3 feet, the minimum number of bricks can be removed to perform the changout. If the distance is greater, the mason should take out a triangle of brick above the opening, otherwise the masonry is unstable and could fall. The advice I give to owners before they need to replace the lintels follows: "I recommend treating to resist further corrosion. Sand or steel brush the lintel to bare steel, coat with cold galvanizing compound, found at most paint stores. Chisel out the mortar at the vertical brick joints in the row of bricks just above the window or door. If there is a window above, chisel out the vertical brick joints in the row of bricks just below the sill. This allows the brick wall to dry quickly after a rain."

Where can I find Hammerite paint? I looked at their website and it looks like it's not available in North America. Maybe they had to take it off the US
market because of environmental rules?
?

Originally Posted by Steven Turetsky

Here is a diagram of a through wall flashing from a block wall to lintel. It would work the same way on a wood framed wall, except instead of going through the inner wall, it would be attached to the flat plane of the wall. Of course in both situations there should be a moisture overlapping the flashing going up.

So you see, any water that drains down is directed to atmosphere via the weep holes. water never touches the lintel. The lintel is for support, not for water proofing.

The diagram does not show the weep holes, but you already know where they belong.

I also recommend painting the lintels before you install them, with a durable sealant. I happen to like Hammerite paint. I've seen metal 25 years after application that looks like day 1. The stuff is bullet proof.

Have you tried here? Quick Google search.
Hammerite Paint

Originally Posted by Jim Luttrall

Have you tried here? Quick Google search.
Hammerite Paint

Great- thanks. Google gave me Hammerite.com which gave me a map of where their product is available so wondering if the fact that No. America is not on their map means the product does not comply with environmental standards. But it appears to still be available, thank you, perhaps old stock that they can still sell......?