Thread: Basement Waterproofing/Foundation Repair

St Clair Shores,block wall,former building inspectors house.He already tried tarring,caulking along house and driveway,already mudjacked slabs and painted inside wall,still leaked on longer,heavier rains and spring thaws and didn`t get alot of water but enough to screw up bedroom etc in basement,he finally said ENOUGH! lol Some cracks,cracked parging can be pretty thin,hairline but that is all it takes to get water in,just usually won`t leak as often or as much.

continued............job done in 1 day,cost $2,300 ish,can`t remember exactly.
Last couple pic`s, see where water entered at floor-wall joint,cove,cold joint.

So one can TRY to divert some surface-water away but when there are exterior cracks etc water can still get under driveways,patios and percolate-move through the soil sideways UNDERNEATH mudjacked slabs,new driveway etc. FIND,IDENTIFY the problems FIRST,and then fix them correctly. When a house is for sale and someone tells me they fixed-solved their leaky basement by mudjacking slabs or raising the grade i know they have not.What they`ve done is leave whatever the actual problem(s) are for the NEXT homeowner.

Inside system previously installed then house was sold.Buyers got screwed,lied to,misled call it what you like.Inside system whether done by B Dry,Everdry,Basement System,Mid Atlantic Water`g etc etc do NOT repair exterior cracks,cracked parging and so on. Nor do they relieve,lessen ANY exterior soil pressure or remove underground roots against walls or concrete slabs etc.

Mold,efflorescence here got worse and cracks widened because Bozo`s Big Top Interior waterdiverting is either incompetent or simply doesn`t give a crap about most homeowners actual problems and only wants to install the only thing they do which again, does not repair-waterproof EXISTING defects.

Notice vinyl paneling on lower blocks,does nothing.Some cover-hide lower blocks,some 1/2 the wall and some most or all of the wall.What that does is hide-conceal mold,efflorescence,cracks widening,bottom blocks deteriorating,wall possibly bowing in etc.

Part of front exterior previously done BUT was backfilled with the same CLAY soil,big mistake! Gotta backfill w/all gravel if one wants to do the best job possible and reduce,lessen future soil pressure which would and did cause widening of cracks.

continued......... the MONEY spent on inside system should have been spent to fix actual problems,existing defects which were on the outside of the wall.

Grosse Pointe,right off Lake St Clair. Window well,block wall basement leak. Last pic,come on in Mr Mouse,we have lots of room for you too.Exterior crack in block wall and gaps around window,everything must be sealed.

Window well continued.....

Originally Posted by Richard A Hetzel

I've read through Mr. Bubber's posts, and some of the vituperous omments about them, and I find it strange that a man who takes time and effort to, not just post his own opinion, but to back up what he says with links to legitimate third parties, and with photographs and descriptions from his own work, is attacked and ridiculed by people who have more than likely never waterproofed a foundation in their lives.

There are a lot of scammers and fly-by-nighters in the basement "waterproofing" business, but Mr. Bubber is not one of them. I do not know him, and will probably never meet him (although a sit-down with a couple of foamy ones would probably be a trip), I don't work for or with him, and am not connected to him in any way.

I simply recognize the ring of truth when I hear it, and Mr. Bubber's posts are a veritable carillon.

Thank you Mr Hetzel.....i`ll bring along your thoughts as i post more photo`s/facts versus the CRAP here and from SOME-other home inspectors,city inspectors and those SO-CALLED EXPERT witnesses on THIS subejct....

Some get it, many do NOT, thats YOUR problem-incompetence and you will be held accountable
Here, eat this....
Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Basement Wate...

Wall anchors installed.....and....so? Those of YOU who always recommend inside system companies and their DUMB CHTT like THIS should be SUED.

There WERE and STILL ARE, exterior cracks....they were not repaired/waterproofed and homeowner was told THIS SHTT was all they needed.............my AZ!!!!!

LOOK at the photo`s fooooolzz.

Deteriorated block,mold and STILL friggin LEAKS! LOLOL!

Each wall anchor likley cost $500-1,000.....got that?

There is STILL....the same WEIGHT/PRESSURE against the basement wall!

Installing 100 wall anchors or carbon straps does NOT REMOVE clay,possible underground roots etc OFF the dumb az WALL! It does NOT relieve,reduce exterior weight/pressure and again.....DUH....did not repair/waterproof EXISTING CRACKS......which allowed water to enter and caused mold! And many inside system companies COVER/HIDE part or ALL of the inside of the wall with BLCCHHTTTTT!

John
Much better.
Thanks for changing to Picasa.
Good job

am trying Rick......

One more thing.......AGAIN..........

B DRY and NAWSRC and other inside system Co`s CLAIM....
Basement Waterproofing Information and FAQs - Waterproofing Cost - Learn about Our Waterproofing Systems
Q- Seal outside wall(s)? THEY tell people....NO! False,incompetent claims,omitting/obscurring material facts for SELF GAIN=FRAUD

Basement Waterproofing Information and FAQs - Waterproofing Cost - Learn about Our Waterproofing Systems

They`ve never repaired/waterproofed exterior cracks,never removed clay,roots etc OFF exterior walls and on and on.
UN-------BE------LIEVABLE!

Here`s ONE builder who UNDERSTANDS the IMPORTANCE of backfilling with all gravel and WHY!!!
6th paragraph...... Dwight Yoder Builders

Bowed,cracked wall....clay etc
Overcoming Problems with Marine Clays*- Fairfax County, Virginia
Scroll down to, Basement Wall Damage.....
To prevent future damage........do WHAT B DRY???????????

PAGE 3.........................
http://www.plickandassociates.com/newsletters/Mar06.pdf
....Basement walls are subject to LATERAL PRESSURE from WEIGHT of SOIL.....
....The mortar joints are WEAKER than the masonry blocks

RIGHT! And to LEAVE clay/roots/concrete etc against an already failing wall or wall w/cracks widening,leaks etc and INSTEAD install wall anchors or carbon straps and an inside system is TRULY INCOMPETENT! SUE the sobs REPEATEDLY

Plick......and Yoder etc....basement walls are subject to lateral pressure,soil pressure,underground roots you won`t SEE,concrete slabs,porch footings etc
US Army Corps of Engineers, Buffalo District

Originally Posted by John Bubber

Wall anchors installed.....and....so? Those of YOU who always recommend inside system companies and their DUMB CHTT like THIS should be SUED.

There WERE and STILL ARE, exterior cracks....they were not repaired/waterproofed and homeowner was told THIS SHTT was all they needed.............my AZ!!!!!

LOOK at the photo`s fooooolzz.

JOHN,

IT IS NOT WHAT YOU ARE SAYING BUT THE WAY YOU ARE SAYING IT, AND THAT YOU SAY THE SAME THING OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND ...

WAKE MAN AND READ THE REPLIES, QUIT REPEATING THE SAME CRAP OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER ... AND, YES, EVEN GOOD INFORMATION BECOMES CRAP WHEN REPEATED OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND OVER AND ...

GET IT YET?

JEEZ.

Jerry thank you!

Originally Posted by Raymond Wand

Jerry thank you!

LOL...no, many HI`s DON`T get it.

Continually read over and over and over and over and over and over on MANY home inspector websites/mdia blchhttt,home improvement radio show hosts etc telling people to RAISE the stuppppuid GRADE,mudjack slabs etc, many OTHERS do not get it and homeowners are the ones PAYING for that INCOMPETENCE....GOT THAT? Gezz man, don`t READ IT, move on! GO talk shtt about Nachi since that apparently means more to you

Originally Posted by John Bubber

on MANY home inspector websites/mdia blchhttt,home improvement radio show hosts etc

BUT NOT HERE ... GET IT?

SO GO THERE AND BITSCH ABOUT IT!

GOT THAT? Gezz man, don`t READ IT, move on!

THEN DON'T POST THAT BLCHHITT HERE WHEN THE PROBLEM IS NOT HERE, POST YOUR BLCHHITT "OVER THERE" WHERE IT WILL REPLY TO THE PEOPLE WHO PISSSS YOU OFF!

There are some HERE who always/only recommend the inside system idiots...got it?

By the way, case you didn`t bother to look, the photo`s are DIFFERENT,different home....different dumb incompetent blchhtt.

What`s the harm man?

Originally Posted by John Bubber

By the way, case you didn`t bother to look, the photo`s are DIFFERENT,different home....different dumb incompetent blchhtt.

YOUR RANT, though, never changes and is the same.

Instead of thinking what is the harm, think of what good it DOES NOT DO to keep ranting like that. First and foremost, you lose your credibility by incessantly ranting like that.

THAT is some of the harm it can do.

Got it yet?

Originally Posted by John Bubber

There are some HERE who always/only recommend the inside system idiots...got it?

By the way, case you didn`t bother to look, the photo`s are DIFFERENT,different home....different dumb incompetent blchhtt.

What`s the harm man?

Recommend what? Water leaks in a basement? When I used to inspect homes I never recommended a repair when the foundation was leaking. The only time I recommended sloping the soil way from the home properly (as it should be) is when pockets next to the home had been washed out by no gutters or dogs digging etc etc. If one sees no water intrusion in a basement then that is the route to go to keep the water from pooling next to the home. We are not talking about a 3 foot hole. Even at that rate I tell them of the water pooling next to the foundation and hire a contractor for proper repairs. I may tell them of the grade and what the minimum should be. Water leaks in a homes basement?? I know of no home inspector that recommends repairs. They do not and will not know the total problem until they did what you did and dig up beside the foundation to make proper repairs. The extent of the damage cannot always be seen inside. You know not of the soil conditions till you dig it up . It may have been filled with anything.

In short John, you are providing some decent info of which most folks, inspectors, home owners, contractors could find if they investigated the matter a little on the computer. Most would not attempt any repair of that matter with the exception of a few.

Trying to cut this off a bit

Good info but think very seriously about this. You are preaching to the wrong quire. No one here is going to give any of that info to there client. They direct them in the general direction of a foundation contractor and not anyone in particular. We find concerns and put it to paper. Client/Realtor finds the appropriate contractor.

Even someone with the plethora of garbage on your computer and your experience is not going to be referred to directly by me or almost anyone on here. Liability is to great.

If inspectors in your area are recommending a particular type of repair when they see a leak then they are fools and maybe you should be preaching to them in particular.

Ted,

"Preaching to the wrong quire".???

Oh, you meant like a singing group?

choir

nevermind..

Originally Posted by RANDY NICHOLAS

Ted,

"Preaching to the wrong quire".???

Oh, you meant like a singing group?

choir

nevermind..

Hmmm

Those words just sneak in all the time. I have no idea where they come from. Some other dimension would be my guess

Like those words I highlighted above in blue

Ted,
I use the backspace key alot.

Back to the subject;
Basements????

We don't need no stinking basements,

with our frost line at 12 inches.

Randy

Originally Posted by RANDY NICHOLAS

Ted,
I use the backspace key alot.

Back to the subject;
Basements????

We don't need no stinking basements,

with our frost line at 12 inches.

Randy

I think I have been in one actual basement since I came to Texas pushing on 6 years ago. I believe I have been in a half dozen walk out basements on sloped lots. I guess they are basements even though the rear is open.

In Mass I had been in many many basements (most homes) but only lived in one home that had a full basement and a few with half or walk out basements.

Florida I do not believe I stepped into a basement considering The highest point I lived was several feet or so above sea level.

Besides...The boogy man lives down there. Its bad enough that I have to go into a crawl now and then, The man doesn't like the crawls cause he is to big and scary. The bugs scare me bad enough. They are my boogy man.

If a waterproof exterior basement wall is the only workable solution, what of drystone?

The house in which I was raised dated back to around 1830. The foundation fo this house was random ashlar drystone (actually a more of a well-dressed rubble). No mortar between the joints, of course. The cellar was dry, however, due to the careful grading of the surrounding property I do remember some water problems about the time we were connected to city water mains, and our cistern, which had accepted the rainwater delivered by the downspouts, was decommissioned. The problem was corrected with the installation of dry-wells for disposal of the rain water.

What would be the "correct" thing to do with such a cellar? should a building be jacked up and have the historic stonework replaced with modern concrete?

Stone rubble foundations below grade were never meant to be water proof. They are porous and will leak. Basements during that circa were never meant to be living space. If you want to make it waterproof and living area, you could have the foundation replaced but you are looking at quite a bit of money.

Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Basement Wate...#

yep, 'Drippy' made $5,700 and homeowners problem is worse....wonderfkgful.

CITY inspector and Hm Imp radio show host recommended Dripheads.....wonderfkgful.

John, I don't doubt that you are well versed in the waterproofing industry. I do take issue with the fact that you have attempted to take over a board that tries to offer a non conflicted veiw on construction and residential properties. If your views and knowledge are so far superior to the common mans ,then I believe you should have a site of your own.

90% of "Water Proofing" basements is snake oil. I've NEVER seen a wet basement or crawl space where all roof runoff was properly routed and all surfaces were properly sloped away from the structure.

Dealing with water once it's in a space is totally reactive and an uphill battle.

another nitwit interior drainage system
Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - BasementWater...#

these companies need to be sued BOG time for MISREPRESENTING MOST homeowners problems like duh.....the reasons-causes of the cracks,of the bowed walls and why it actually friggin leaks which then causes the mold and efflorescence.

the causes of the cracks,leaks etc are on the outside of the g damn walls,there are exterior cracks and cracked parging...THAT is where the WATER FIRST enters into the dumb az hollow-blocks and comes out at the floor-wall joint. Its that-water that causes the friggin mold,efflorescence.

expanding-contracting clay soil and underground tree roots and a couple concrete slabs have CAUSED the cracks in basement walls and walls to bow.

playing withe the GRADE does NOT fix,repair ANY of this shtt.

installing inside systems does NOT repair ANY of the PROBLEMS,
EXISTING DEFECTS you knotheads, lolol. God so many r so incompetent,ignorant and fraudulent on THIS subject.

Homeowners......jesus peeps, you need to SUE these BOZO`s for SEDUCING you, LYING to you about the actual problems/causes!!!!!!!!!!!

Any home inspector,city inspector etc shuld also be SUED....IF there STUPIS enough to not first determine/diagnose the actual problems and recommend an inside system company as a 'solution'.

OPEN YOUR EYEBALLS chumps, the PROOF of what the fc i say and KNOW is in the photos. Ok, now you can go back to what YOU deem more important than this subject...doorbells not working,maybe some loose door KNOBS etc!!!!! lololol!!!!! Bye bye now

Originally Posted by John Bubber

another nitwit interior drainage system
Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - BasementWater...#

these companies need to be sued BOG time for MISREPRESENTING MOST homeowners problems like duh.....the reasons-causes of the cracks,of the bowed walls and why it actually friggin leaks which then causes the mold and efflorescence.

the causes of the cracks,leaks etc are on the outside of the g damn walls,there are exterior cracks and cracked parging...THAT is where the WATER FIRST enters into the dumb az hollow-blocks and comes out at the floor-wall joint. Its that-water that causes the friggin mold,efflorescence.

expanding-contracting clay soil and underground tree roots and a couple concrete slabs have CAUSED the cracks in basement walls and walls to bow.

playing withe the GRADE does NOT fix,repair ANY of this shtt.

installing inside systems does NOT repair ANY of the PROBLEMS,
EXISTING DEFECTS you knotheads, lolol. God so many r so incompetent,ignorant and fraudulent on THIS subject.

Homeowners......jesus peeps, you need to SUE these BOZO`s for SEDUCING you, LYING to you about the actual problems/causes!!!!!!!!!!!

Any home inspector,city inspector etc shuld also be SUED....IF there STUPIS enough to not first determine/diagnose the actual problems and recommend an inside system company as a 'solution'.

OPEN YOUR EYEBALLS chumps, the PROOF of what the fc i say and KNOW is in the photos. Ok, now you can go back to what YOU deem more important than this subject...doorbells not working,maybe some loose door KNOBS etc!!!!! lololol!!!!! Bye bye now

Just another ignorant putz like those I have met in the past that are so in love with themselves that they cannot understand why no one listens to them. I love my, I love me, I love me, I am Gods gift to mankind and everyone else is a fool and an idiot, I went out and learned about foundation leaks and I am now Gods lercted fool to impose myself on everyone, down everyone, there is not another intelligent man left on the planet, I know all...get it.

Quite frankly John...you don't get it. Some day when you grow up and mature a little more (I do not care how old you are) you will understand the sickness ione gets when all the other person gets is the God forsaken I love myself crap. For some reason you believe that ranting for months on end on this board about how much you love yourself and how much all else on the planet suck, is going to fix a handful of individuals out there that just piss you off.

John...do you have the Napoleon Syndrome. Did someone beat you as a boy and you never got over it. Did your parents use to lock you in a closet until you repeated one thousand times how much you love yourself and the rest of the world is not worthy of washing your feet.

John....You know about basement repairs...................get over it..........Do your job and save the rant and love thyself for potential clients. You will not find any on here. You come to a home inspectors board and no matter how hard you try to not lump all Home Inspectors in one pile and tell them they all suck because of things that have occurred in your past.....but you cannot help it. It squeezes out of your poors until it finaly comes out that all h9ome inspectors suck........................"They need to go tell the folks things they know like the door bell does not work".......What an *******. Take a hike John. Crawl back into your closet and beg to be kept in there until you repeat every single one of your thousand times...."I love me and everyone else sucks"

What a joke..... but it is on you.

Ted, Ted, Ted,....... do what I did. Add this dipwad to your IGNORE list.
A septic pumper couldn't get the stench out fast enough for me, I clicked on IGNORE. Suggest you do the same.

Originally Posted by Jack Feldmann

Ted, Ted, Ted,....... do what I did. Add this dipwad to your IGNORE list.
A septic pumper couldn't get the stench out fast enough for me, I clicked on IGNORE. Suggest you do the same.

Already did that right after that post. I should have a long time ago. My first impressions are generally right but I give folks way to much slack to prove otherwise.

Hey John, I get it now. The publisher decided against picking up your coffee table book called The Rantings Of A Cellar Dweller and you decided to try and post it all here! Thanks so much. I was so bored to tears I now have a moisture problem on my keyboard, but I bet you can fix that too.

c h u m p s....period.

some of you have/still recommend inside system companies, its friggin wrong you dumb az. Your hurting those who pay you when you talk shttt/when you recommend inside system co`s or recommend other dumb crap like raising the stuuuuuuuupid grade,idiots!!

YOU do not GET IT, YOU need to be sued. Now go back and inspect some door knobs and light bulbs, twinkle toes.

Like taking some HI course for 2-4-8 weeks/whatever gives you all mighty knowledge, friggin pathetic, some of you will be soon and deersve it BIG time. GOT THAT Punks?

Originally Posted by John Bubber

c h u m p s....period.



YOU do not GET IT, YOU need to be sued. Now go back and inspect some door knobs and light bulbs, twinkle toes.

Like taking some HI course for 2-4-8 weeks/whatever gives you all mighty knowledge, friggin pathetic, some of you will be soon and deersve it BIG time. GOT THAT Punks?

John, I'm not a home inspector. If you took the time to find these things out, instead of patting yourself on the back you would know this. As for the other remarks, real men let thier work speak for itself. GOT THAT TWINKLE TOES?

I invite you all to drink a beer in MD next time you come here. Now I want to see who's going to beat THAT!

http://www.topnews.in/health/files/beer.jpg

Is there an option on Inspection News Boards to ignore posts from particular individuals?

I read one (smart) post about adding people to 'iggy lists' and I hoped it was automated, rather than having to open up a thread and shake my head saying "Is he still going on?"

To Ignore Idiots...
1. Click on the idiots name...
2. Click on profile.....
3. On the right side you will see a place where you can place said Idiot to your ignore list.

Use it wisely, use it often.

Originally Posted by John Bubber

c h u m p s....period.

some of you have/still recommend inside system companies, its friggin wrong you dumb az. Your hurting those who pay you when you talk shttt/when you recommend inside system co`s or recommend other dumb crap like raising the stuuuuuuuupid grade,idiots!!

YOU do not GET IT, YOU need to be sued. Now go back and inspect some door knobs and light bulbs, twinkle toes.

Like taking some HI course for 2-4-8 weeks/whatever gives you all mighty knowledge, friggin pathetic, some of you will be soon and deersve it BIG time. GOT THAT Punks?

John (if that's who you really are), you might have some useful info to pass along but your grade school insults and multiple masked expletives completely erode any credibility you think you have with the members of this board. I'm guessing you are either drunk or high when you post or you just get your jollys out of getting under peoples' skin. Either way, you need help.

Take your act elsewhere. It's tired.

It's really a shame that everyone can't get along. John unfortunately has annoyed many on this board and gets slammed a lot. Yes, John is long winded, strongly opinionated and a bit macho about his skills. However he is essentially correct about his basement water intrusion views.
I agree with a lot of what John says and his attitude towards basement repair people. I explain to clients regularly that interior repairs are just a band-aid, waste of money and not the correct solution. People don't want to hear it. They want to hear the feel good sales pitch from Mr. logo polo shirt and pressed khakis.
The fact that 'old' construction basements were never meant to be clean, finished occupancy space has been completely wiped out by agents and tv shows.
A client can believe the sales pitch and spend a few hundred to a few thousand and supposedly have a dry basement. Or a client can spend 10-30K and have a sound, dry basement. We know of course which scenario clients pick.
Give John a break, if you don't like the messenger, fine. Listen to the message instead. He provides a lot of good info, especially for newer HI. One could easily use John's info to educate clients so they hopefully don't make common mistakes.

What message? That we are all chumps, dweebs, morons, idiots? He should find a new profession such as painting because he likes to paint with a very wide brush.

I agree with a lot of what John says too Markus but there's a right way and wrong way to get your message across if you want to be heard and taken seriously.

Throwing out insults and calling people names like you are 10 years old? He demeans our profession and puts us down. Why would anybody want to give him a break or defend him?

A lot of people who act this way say "it's just business, nothing personal". That's nothing more than an excuse for bad behavior. John can continue to act any way he wants but it doesn't mean anybody has to listen or be his punching bag. He's already gotten some members of this board to put his posts on their IGNORE list.

Sorry.....NO.

Markus, were you a defense lawyer before? I believe the man needs brain surgery. It would be the first time doctors entered rectally because that is where his head is.

Hopefully it's not too late to bring this thread back to life! I'm in the middle of purchasing a home and there are a few vertical cracks going through the cinder blocks. There is also a fairly long (3-4 feet horizontal crack running through one side of the basement). I've had two people look at it

Person A - Says it is an issue. Wants to install Power Braces (steel I-Beams) as well as a water guard system (tray that goes under the floor bringing water to drain in basement). Offers both products for only about $3k more than just the carbon fiber solution from person B.

Person B - wants to use the carbon fiber strips. States this is only about a 3/10 on the "bad scale" but wall should be repaired since it is bowing slightly. He stated waterproofing is not necessary. Suggests cutting downspouts and diverting them into the yard (currently the downspout is straight down next to the foundation). He states the carbon fiber will fix the current issue and simply correcting the downspouts will stop stress on wall and also stop the moisture.


Can anyone suggest Carbon Fiber strips over the I-beam? Person B seems more honest.. but then again the carbon fiber solution is more expensive. I can confirm the wall is slightly bowed so I would have to agree that something needs to be done...

Originally Posted by Sam Alex

Hopefully it's not too late to bring this thread back to life! I'm in the middle of purchasing a home and there are a few vertical cracks going through the cinder blocks. There is also a fairly long (3-4 feet horizontal crack running through one side of the basement). I've had two people look at it

Person A - Says it is an issue. Wants to install Power Braces (steel I-Beams) as well as a water guard system (tray that goes under the floor bringing water to drain in basement). Offers both products for only about $3k more than just the carbon fiber solution from person B.

Person B - wants to use the carbon fiber strips. States this is only about a 3/10 on the "bad scale" but wall should be repaired since it is bowing slightly. He stated waterproofing is not necessary. Suggests cutting downspouts and diverting them into the yard (currently the downspout is straight down next to the foundation). He states the carbon fiber will fix the current issue and simply correcting the downspouts will stop stress on wall and also stop the moisture.


Can anyone suggest Carbon Fiber strips over the I-beam? Person B seems more honest.. but then again the carbon fiber solution is more expensive. I can confirm the wall is slightly bowed so I would have to agree that something needs to be done...

Which person (Person A or Person B) is a PE (such as a structural engineer)? That is the person I would listen to ... and no one else ... you want someone who can sign and seal the correction.

I've heard of carbon fiber repairs for basement walls which are bowing or have cracks, but not for waterproofing if that is needed also. Waterproofing can only be done correctly from the exterior.

The theory behind the carbon fiber is the which applies to drywall - the gypsum core in the drywall is not very strong, but put a layer of paper on each side of that gypsum core and you have a strong board ... unless one face is cut ... then it just folds along the cut. The carbon fiber bands serve the same purpose as the paper on the drywall ... puts tension on one side (like the uncut paper side of the drywall) and does that well because the other side has the soil pressure on it.

The steel beams work to stop the most bowed out area from bowing out further by attaching the top and bottom of the steel beam to the top and bottom of the wall (or some equivalent place) and puts tension on the bowed out area so it does not bow more.

The carbon fiber repair is flat against the wall, the steel beams take of space, which is better for your specific location and problem is best left to the engineering who will sign and seal the repair, and to the repair contractor who will guaranty it for XX years.

Kevin,
nobody made you read sht. The smart guys over there at nachi don't seem to have much of a problem w/my posts....except those few nitwits who get PAID to push certain inside system companies on homeowners (ahem)

Carbon fiber straps,beams and-or installing any inside system will not stop water from getting into the blocks and coming out at-along bottom of wall and floor. Straps and beams do not remove/relieve any exterior pressure,most of what ANY inside system owner/saleperson says is incompetent,fraudulent.

block wall, eyeball the deteriorated blocks/joints....how would any inside system stop water and stop further deterioration? Never gonna happen and this is part of what some engineers etc don't get.
Photo 14 Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Crawlspace#
Put your Xypex on this huh? lolOLOLlll Fools.

Inside system and beams installed here, over $15,000....cracks widening,still leaking,more mold and efflorescence.....real smart.
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Originally Posted by Kevin Wood

John I don't support inside systems! You are right but I give my clients the easy fix first and then if this dosn't work, outside is the next option.

are you saying you intentionally waste client time & money on repair misinformation?

what are your qualifications to prescribe repairs in the first place?

Originally Posted by BARRY ADAIR

are you saying you intentionally waste client time & money on repair misinformation?

what are your qualifications to prescribe repairs in the first place?

just my 2 cents......

far as i know Mr Kevin is a home inspector/is-was a Nachi member(and that's fine).

he also plugs Xypex pretty often as i 'think' he/some others get PAID doing so(that is a bunch of sht, pumping products to homeowners for SELF GAIN, especially when not an expert on the-subject).

Originally Posted by John Bubber

Kevin,
nobody made you read sht. The smart guys over there at nachi don't seem to have much of a problem w/my posts....except those few nitwits who get PAID to push certain inside system companies on homeowners (ahem)

Carbon fiber straps,beams and-or installing any inside system will not stop water from getting into the blocks and coming out at-along bottom of wall and floor. Straps and beams do not remove/relieve any exterior pressure,most of what ANY inside system owner/saleperson says is incompetent,fraudulent.

block wall, eyeball the deteriorated blocks/joints....how would any inside system stop water and stop further deterioration? Never gonna happen and this is part of what some engineers etc don't get.
Photo 14 Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Crawlspace#
Put your Xypex on this huh? lolOLOLlll Fools.

Inside system and beams installed here, over $15,000....cracks widening,still leaking,more mold and efflorescence.....real smart.
Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - BasementWater...#

Thanks for the tips/pictures. For the house I'm buying I feel the downspouts and grading are the real root cause of the water. They go straight down by the foundation and some areas of the house aren't even graded up at all (water just sits in a hole by the wall). I want to first repair this but wasn't sure of the best way to repair the cracks already done by the pressure from the outside. They aren't terrible but the basement wall does bow in a little. Will just removing the root cause allow the wall to "unbow" or does a system still need to be put in place? If indoor systems aren't good, what kind of an outdoor one would you recommend? Would it even be needed anymore if the downspouts and grading is improved?

Thanks in advance!!

Originally Posted by Sam Alex

Thanks for the tips/pictures. For the house I'm buying I feel the downspouts and grading are the real root cause of the water. They go straight down by the foundation and some areas of the house aren't even graded up at all (water just sits in a hole by the wall). I want to first repair this but wasn't sure of the best way to repair the cracks already done by the pressure from the outside. They aren't terrible but the basement wall does bow in a little. Will just removing the root cause allow the wall to "unbow" or does a system still need to be put in place? If indoor systems aren't good, what kind of an outdoor one would you recommend? Would it even be needed anymore if the downspouts and grading is improved?

Thanks in advance!!

Any pics of yours? I'm assuming you have block walls.
If and when the CAUSE of a bowed wall is/are ROOT(s) against the exterior wall then NO INTERIOR SYSTEM, no beams,no carbon straps etc on inside would remove the exterior roots or clay soil etc that is against the exterior of a wall and also would NOT repair/waterproof the EXTERIOR cracks,joints etc on the outside of a wall.

Only ONE way to remove the roots or a stump or clay etc that pretty often CAUSES cracks in a wall, bowed wall......outside/exterior waterproofing done correctly. Playing with the grade,downspouts etc doesn't remove roots etc off wall, doesn't waterproof exterior cracks either. In my honest opinion that is one of several myths(playing w/grade etc).

For instance, IF a tree landed on your ROOF which caused damage to the roof and of course then allowed water to begin to enter would you LEAVE the tree on the roof, NOT repair the damage to roof and INSTEAD go up in the attic and say,maybe patch the roof from inside? Maybe put beams or other crap inside? Install a sump etc inside? lol .......no. So why do so many get BS'd into same type CRAP when it comes to basement walls? Answer...incompetent and-or fraudulent interior companies and others.
That's ALL they do (work from inside) so any SUPPOSED answers/supposed repairs from these nitwits are always crap done on the inside. (yeah,a few may TOY with/play with the GRADE,may tell homeowners they'll dig outside BUT they only dig about 1' deep and install some cheap drain tile//that won't do squat.

In other words they'll tell you just about anything to get a job, self gain=crooks.

Expansive soil causes twice as much damage every year to homes/walls,roads etc etc than hurricanes,tornadoes and earthquakes combined.

If you have 1+ cracks in your wall(s) (or other possible openings/pathways) then imo THOSE are why/how water is getting in, that is what needs to be repaired correctly. If you/others want to play with the grade etc and its your own house then thats your call,your choice....its your house/money.

UNBOW a wall that is bowed in somewhat.......
sometimes......SOME walls WILL (all by themselves) straighten up somewhat,yes. May happen 1-2 times throughout the year.
Some will straighten up x-amount for AWHILE and THEN bow in x-amount again and then, maybe straighten up again etc.

Some will STAY pretty-much the way they are without doing ANYTHING for awhile....yep.

But one thing some do not get is, some blocks/joints are-will DETERIORATE (see photos posted), the wall can,will get weaker JUST because 1+ blocks are deteriorating......yep. Some do and some don't.
The WATER that is getting in(basement) on these bowed walls are most pretty much DUE to the EXTERIOR cracks etc and the ONLY way to STOP that is exterior waterproofing.

Looking at a block wall from inside the basement doesn't tell the whole story of what is usually going on/wrong on the outside of it. The wall may look pretty good from the inside, you may not see any deteriorating blocks/joints but that does NOT ever mean they aren't any blocks deteriorating on the exterior.

Pretty often w/block,brick walls you won't see any CRACKS from inside the basement but that NEVER means there aren't any exterior cracks,cracked parging and other openings on exterior of it


Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Basement Wate...#
Block wall (back), on inside/basement there is drywall against-along wall, can't see squat. Water comes onto floor at-along bottom of wall/floor meet aka cold joint/I joint etc.
Someone previously tried raising the grade and raised patio/pavers....that did zip.
Some underground roots and clay against exterior wall, exterior cracks/cracked parging and OTHER OPENINGS....that IS where the water FIRST entered INTO the hollow-blocks and then that water dropped/fell through the lower blocks where it eventually made its way into the bottom course/blocks and then came out onto basement floor.
NO inside system on this planet will EVER 'WATERPROOF' basements like this and no beams,carbon fiber straps etc remove exterior roots,clay,concrete against wall. Sometimes part or all of the CAUSE of a crack(s) may even be a porch-FOOTING.

Originally Posted by Sam Alex

Thanks for the tips/pictures. For the house I'm buying I feel the downspouts and grading are the real root cause of the water. They go straight down by the foundation and some areas of the house aren't even graded up at all (water just sits in a hole by the wall). I want to first repair this but wasn't sure of the best way to repair the cracks already done by the pressure from the outside. They aren't terrible but the basement wall does bow in a little. Will just removing the root cause allow the wall to "unbow" or does a system still need to be put in place? If indoor systems aren't good, what kind of an outdoor one would you recommend? Would it even be needed anymore if the downspouts and grading is improved?

Thanks in advance!!

Any pics of yours? I'm assuming you have block walls.
If and when the CAUSE of a bowed wall is/are ROOT(s) against the exterior wall then NO INTERIOR SYSTEM, no beams,no carbon straps etc on inside would remove the exterior roots or clay soil etc that is against the exterior of a wall and also would NOT repair/waterproof the EXTERIOR cracks,joints etc on the outside of a wall.

Only ONE way to remove the roots or a stump or clay etc that pretty often CAUSES cracks in a wall, bowed wall......outside/exterior waterproofing done correctly. Playing with the grade,downspouts etc doesn't remove roots etc off wall, doesn't waterproof exterior cracks either. In my honest opinion that is one of several myths(playing w/grade etc).

For instance, IF a tree landed on your ROOF which caused damage to the roof and of course then allowed water to begin to enter would you LEAVE the tree on the roof, NOT repair the damage to roof and INSTEAD go up in the attic and say,maybe patch the roof from inside? Maybe put beams or other crap inside? Install a sump etc inside? lol .......no. So why do so many get BS'd into same type CRAP when it comes to basement walls? Answer...incompetent and-or fraudulent interior companies and others.
That's ALL they do (work from inside) so any SUPPOSED answers/supposed repairs from these nitwits are always crap done on the inside. (yeah,a few may TOY with/play with the GRADE,may tell homeowners they'll dig outside BUT they only dig about 1' deep and install some cheap drain tile//that won't do squat.

In other words they'll tell you just about anything to get a job, self gain=crooks.

Expansive soil causes twice as much damage every year to homes/walls,roads etc etc than hurricanes,tornadoes and earthquakes combined.

If you have 1+ cracks in your wall(s) (or other possible openings/pathways) then imo THOSE are why/how water is getting in, that is what needs to be repaired correctly. If you/others want to play with the grade etc and its your own house then thats your call,your choice....its your house/money.

UNBOW a wall that is bowed in somewhat.......
sometimes......SOME walls WILL (all by themselves) straighten up somewhat,yes. May happen 1-2 times throughout the year.
Some will straighten up x-amount for AWHILE and THEN bow in x-amount again and then, maybe straighten up again etc.

Some will STAY pretty-much the way they are without doing ANYTHING for awhile....yep.

But one thing some do not get is, some blocks/joints are-will DETERIORATE (see photos posted), the wall can,will get weaker JUST because 1+ blocks are deteriorating......yep. Some do and some don't.
The WATER that is getting in(basement) on these bowed walls are most pretty much DUE to the EXTERIOR cracks etc and the ONLY way to STOP that is exterior waterproofing.

Looking at a block wall from inside the basement doesn't tell the whole story of what is usually going on/wrong on the outside of it. The wall may look pretty good from the inside, you may not see any deteriorating blocks/joints but that does NOT ever mean they aren't any blocks deteriorating on the exterior.

Pretty often w/block,brick walls you won't see any CRACKS from inside the basement but that NEVER means there aren't any exterior cracks,cracked parging and other openings on exterior of it


Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Basement Wate...#
Block wall (back), on inside/basement there is drywall against-along wall, can't see squat. Water comes onto floor at-along bottom of wall/floor meet aka cold joint/I joint etc.
Someone previously tried raising the grade and raised patio/pavers....that did zip.
Some underground roots and clay against exterior wall, exterior cracks/cracked parging and OTHER OPENINGS....that IS where the water FIRST entered INTO the hollow-blocks and then that water dropped/fell through the lower blocks where it eventually made its way into the bottom course/blocks and then came out onto basement floor.
NO inside system on this planet will EVER 'WATERPROOF' basements like this and no beams,carbon fiber straps etc remove exterior roots,clay,concrete against wall. Sometimes part or all of the CAUSE of a crack(s) may even be a porch-FOOTING.

SELLER raised the grade here about 16-20".......did doing this stop basement from leaking? No. The problems/solution was NOT the GRADE, the problems were cracked parging and OTHER openings on the exterior of the wall so the ONLY TRUE,long lasting SOLUTION was exterior waterproofing THIS area
Picasa Web Albums - LeakyBasement - Basement Wate...

I am not a HI, nor was I ever one. I am also not a waterproofing contractor, nor was I ever one. Having said that, I do agree with Mr. Blubber's waterproofing methods (maybr not his communications methods, but definately his waterproofing methods).

However my post here concerns my Master Degree in Civil Engineering, with a concentration in soils, my past employment as a Field Site Engineer for a Geotech Engineering Firm mainly on foundation projects, my past certification as an OSHA "compentent person" for trench work, and my past work running a telecommunications conduit and manhole installation department.

As I have said, all of this is in the past (10 year or so ago) but looking at Mr. Blubbers pictures in his last post of his men working in an unsupported/unbraced trench about 2' wide, with one vertical side (no slope at all) and the other the foundation wall, and working up to their shoulders scares the hell out of me. I am sure he has been doing this for years, but I have seen trenches give way, I have seen soils heave, move, slip, flow, etc.

As I am sure many of the HI on this site will say, safety if paramount about all other factors.

-dave

Thanks John. What you are saying makes perfect sense. If roots or soil pressure are causing the cracks then how would "proofing" the inside do anything? I'm just saying if I fix the downspouts and grading this should help. The whole house very well could need exterior water proofing as well. I am attaching some pictures. Looking forward to your expect opinion, Thanks!

Originally Posted by David Dolch

I am not a HI, nor was I ever one. I am also not a waterproofing contractor, nor was I ever one. Having said that, I do agree with Mr. Blubber's waterproofing methods (maybr not his communications methods, but definately his waterproofing methods).

However my post here concerns my Master Degree in Civil Engineering, with a concentration in soils, my past employment as a Field Site Engineer for a Geotech Engineering Firm mainly on foundation projects, my past certification as an OSHA "compentent person" for trench work, and my past work running a telecommunications conduit and manhole installation department.

As I have said, all of this is in the past (10 year or so ago) but looking at Mr. Blubbers pictures in his last post of his men working in an unsupported/unbraced trench about 2' wide, with one vertical side (no slope at all) and the other the foundation wall, and working up to their shoulders scares the hell out of me. I am sure he has been doing this for years, but I have seen trenches give way, I have seen soils heave, move, slip, flow, etc.

As I am sure many of the HI on this site will say, safety if paramount about all other factors.

-dave

Been hand digging these trenches for 34 yrs Mr Dave and WHEN we're digging in sand or shtty soil (likely CAVE IN's) i/we do indeed will dig them much differently/slope etc. It's not just the soil thats important(possible cave in cause) but also if there are underground roots in the soil, if it has rained or its going to rain the day of a job(can easily cause cave ins) or if the job is near a highway etc(vibrations) or even an underground leaky-dripping sprinkler hose sure can cause a cave in.

You bring up a good point Mr Dave and i wish OTHERS would learn what the hlll they're digging in and how to help prevent cave ins. Example, when doing an entire wall it is sometimes necessary(to help prevent cave ins) to hand dig one or both ENDS of the trench all the way down and leave 2-3' in the middle(to help brace bank side), waterproof the ends,backfill ends and THEN take part or rest of the middle down and waterproof/overlap and backfill rest. Pay my guys very well and i'm in the holes with them and for the first 27-28 years I applied the hydraulic cement,tar,visqueen 99% of all jobs meaning it was my az in those trecnhes that were dug all the way out.

Sam,
It's always best to see each problem/house/basement in person.

Looks like there is at least 1 vertical crack and a step crack/my eyes aren't what they used to be eh.

Is there a porch/addition etc on the outside of the wall?

Yes, its 'possible' to slow-down the amount of water you get in by toying w/the grade etc. If your real lucky you MIGHT even get no water in....for AWHILE.

Sometimes raising the grade,especially if using clay etc can exert more pressure/weight against-the-wall and then cause more problems so careful there eh. And if raising the grade up against bricks it would be a good idea to seal/waterproof those bricks and joints where you'd be placing soil against so it doesn't cause problems with those. If you want to discuss on phone i could get you my number, here to try n help, don't want anything.

I have a customer with an interesting problem that I haven't encountered and I wonder if anyone has?The house is a 5 year old ICF (NUDURA) and they have a propane like odour with no propane appliances.Any thoughts