Thread: Superior Wall System, in slab radiant heat, Moisture

I have a case with a small ranch home that was built in 2008 using a superior wall system. Apparently there were 2 slabs poured due to the in slab radiant heat.
The area of the foundation walls between the metal studs appears to be exposed dirt which at most areas is a wet mud. Is this the norm for superior walls?
There is also a door that opens to the exterior which is wicking up moisture quite a bit. The door rough in was constructed with treated wood directly in the concrete with no moisture barrier.

Does anyone have any experience with these superior walls?

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They are suppose to be on "bed if stone", so it would stand to reason that some dirt/mud could work its way up to the wall sections during the install. One of the many reasons I am not a fan of this system.

Superior Walls By Collier Foundation Systems, Inc.

Does anyone have a detail or method used for wood installed in concrete?
Here is the wood I was talking about that is installed directly in the concrete.
It is wicking moisture right up and will need to be re done.

You don't place wood in concrete unless you are building a fence! I have never seen an install like that.

Superior Walls in my area is very responsive to customer complaints. As mentioned, the system is installed on a bed of gravel. There is no poured footing. The slab is a part of the system to prevent the walls from moving inwards. Again there should be a bed of gravel under the slab.

I suggest you contact Superior Walls and have them inspect their system for the client.

From what I have been told, the door framing was installed after the fact. I believe the rough out was done by superior wall and then it was boarded up until the money was there to install the door (I think, details are a bit sketchy)..

The question now would be, What to do..
I'm not familiar with retro fits and was hoping to be able to guide the owners in the right direction.

Originally Posted by Jon mackay

From what I have been told, the door framing was installed after the fact. I believe the rough out was done by superior wall and then it was boarded up until the money was there to install the door (I think, details are a bit sketchy)..

The question now would be, What to do..
I'm not familiar with retro fits and was hoping to be able to guide the owners in the right direction.

Tell them to start with the Superior wall folks. This would be their first call. My SWAG is that they will need have all of that crap removed and a new slab mounted frame installed with a new door. Should not be any differant than placing a door frame on a slab foundation. Treated bottom plate attached to the slab and then build up the opening for the size door.

But as others have said, you should be seeing gravel or crushed rock and not mud.

Originally Posted by Jon mackay

The door rough in was constructed with treated wood directly in the concrete with no moisture barrier.

Depends on the wood treatment, that may well have been treated for that contact. Most (is not all) treated wood (referring to normal pressure treated wood here) is made for concrete contact.

Being as that is not embedded in the concrete, that water staining probably will not cause anything bad. Put drywall on it and the drywall will be a problem, but the treated wood should be okay.

Jon;

Do me a favor and post a picture of the floor joists where they run parallel to the foundation wall. Special provisions are needed in this area; let's see if you have a correct installation.

Darren,
Here are some pictures of the I joists.

Jerry,
With treated wood, won't that still rot out over time? It is installed in the rock area which is very wet due to springs and runoff from an adjacent hill.

Jon;

As best as I can see, the floor framing parallel to the Superior is incorrect. See the attached,

Jon;

By the way, in your 3rd picture, the column is incorrect!

I see, it looks like some blocking should be installed between the joists. The column should have been installed with the threads at the bottom and then secured to prevent movement?

You are correct sir!

The blocking between the joist/Wood I beams also need to be properly connected to the sill plate.

OK, good to know.
So I am assuming that the blocking is required to secure the upper portion of the foundation walls in place. They are only otherwise held together with a few bolts at the wall corners. Do you know if a smaller structure would be exempt from this requirement or does it apply to all? This one is approx 27' x 34'

Read the attachments; the requirements are based on the height of fill against the wall.

Originally Posted by Jon mackay

Jerry,
With treated wood, won't that still rot out over time? It is installed in the rock area which is very wet due to springs and runoff from an adjacent hill.

If it is properly treated, it should last.

Most likely, though, it is not properly treated for that location and use.

Not all pressure treated wood is equal.

Ok, another good point.
Thanks again for the info..