I see a lot of advertisements for new home phase inspections. All of the advertisements are rather vague on what exactly they inspect or inspect to.

While I have no interest in performing these types of inspections, I would like to know what constitutes a high quality pre pour inspection. Keep in mind we are talking subdivision builders and not custom homes.

Actually being able to inspect it between the time the preparation is finished and the concrete poured.

Subdivision builders seem to have a way of 'not being ready' and then 30 minutes later 'it is poured' - getting in there to actually do some good is the difficult part.

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Jerry Peck, Construction / Litigation Consultant
Construction Litigation Consultants, LLC ( www.ConstructionLitigationConsultants.com )
www.AskCodeMan.com

1. Inspect the placement of the steel. Things like distance from forms. location of the mat steel in reference to thickness of mat.
2. Look at the grade of the steel.
3. Look for proper laps of the steel.
4. Steel tied properly.
5. Depth and width of beams.
6. Depth of beam below undisturbed soil.
7. Any special conditions....piers. fireplaces.
8. Concrete encased electrode if using PEX or any other non-metalic water pipes.
9. Moisture barrier
10. Protection of pipes passing through beams.
11. Minimum thickness of mat. String across entire slab to verify thickness.
12. Check the achor bolts on site for proper length.

Probably a few more but that's a good start right off the top of my head.

The TRCC is going away so they will no longer accept inspections after August 31. 2009. I have heard a rumor the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulations is taking this procedure over. We'll see!

I would let the engineer who designed the slab do the "real" inspection. I have, however, inspected the following before pour and sometimes before base: Measure the drain placement (have found them 8' off - plumber forgot patio was there), check for conduit, drain, water supply line to islands, measue toilet drain distance to wall, check for downdraft fan duct, possible wate heater drain and TPR drain lines (depends on where water heater is located), etc. I have saved plumbers alot of money from measurement mistakes! The items I mentioned should be checked by the builder!

Most pre pour inspections I have been called for die off rather quickly because they always call the night before the pour and say I can be there before the pour at 8 the next morning. They finish their work but call for the city inspector before hand. After the city inspector does his thing that afternoon I get a call for the following early am inspection and the truck is on the way with the concrete. It just does not happen. The only reason they call off a pour is if the city inspector fails the work. If he passes the work the pour is on. They could care lees about an inspector coming out.

I have been doing new construction phase inspections and just stop by one of the jobs that are at the pour stage and point things out to the builder and hand him my card. Their comment is that the city official has passed it so it must be ok. That is only pointing out the blatent concerns that are seen and not even taking measurements or looking at plans. It makes you wonder sometimes.

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Ted Menelly
Castle Home Inspection Services
www.inspectmycastle.com

Done some pre-pour insp's. Usually the same, check sewer connection, inground plumbing, slope, gravel, radiant flooring loops, wire mesh, stubs, etc. I always require a set of plans ahead of time so I can review. Standing there looking at the plans for the 1st time is no good. I don't do the insp if they want to schedule for the morning of the pour. Waste of my time and their money. Like they are going to tell the cement truck to turn around if I find problems? I'll only inspect a day or two before pour. Usually works out fine. I don't really care. Muni insp rarely show up so they need someone to verify what's there.

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Accurate Inspections & Consulting, Inc.
773/844-4AIC
"The Code is not a ceiling to reach but a floor to work up from"

When I do a prepour, I use the design drawing and my own laser level. I do the items in Wayne's list plus, as he alluded to:
13. Are the forms level, square and straight?
14. Do the overall form dimensions meet the drawing?
15. Do the floor plan drawing and the foundation design drawing agree? (They are usually done by different companies)
16. Plumbing locations.
17. Are the floats located properly?
18. Average rebar spacing in the mat, and average stirrups spacing.
19. Is the moisture barrier sealed around plumbing?
20. Is the PVC protected with mastic or sleeving?
21. Electrical locations and installation methods.

Interesting findings have included:
1. Almost 4" difference in form elevation from one end to the other on a 1900 sf slab. Contractor's laser level was bad. Contractor thanked me.
2. A toilet that would have been in the family room. The builder could have called it a convenience feature.
3. Fairly frequently, the drain to support the upstairs fixtures is forgotten.
4. Fairly frequently, the forms are not square.
5. Exterior rooms, wings, oversized or undersized. Once I found a room that would have been 3' too long.
6. Missing or extra brick ledges. This one really messes up plumber's locations.
7. Inappropriate use of brick ledges, or not, for the intended siding.
8. Thin slab areas. Sometimes as this as 2".
9. Soft pads.
10. Buncha other stuff.

While I also experience occasional difficulty being there at the right time, I don't think the inspection is usually worth while to the contractors and to the home owner. I agree, all of this should have been found by the builder, but you can say that with any defect found during new construction. Builders are human too. Most of them are supportive of a thorough, unbiased inspection. It saves them time and money in the long run.

Darrel Hood
DILIGENT PROPERTY SERVICES
(936)827-7664

CORRECTION:
In the closing paragraph of the prior post, I should have said, I do think this is worthwhile.

Darrel Hood
DILIGENT PROPERTY SERVICES
(936)827-7664